Archive for April 2010
Vanderbilt Mansion 2
– photo by Mitch Waxman
William Kissam Vanderbilt II’s great grandfather was the richest man in the world, worth some $105 million in 1877. The upper estimate of what this would be worth in today’s currency would equate to roughly $180 billion dollars. Compare this with the estimate of John D. Rockefeller’s worth at the time of his death in modern terms- the equivalent of $663 billion, or the last Tsar of Russia who was worth approx. $300 billion.
from stfrancis.edu
Cornelius Vanderbilt (May 27, 1794-January 4, 1877) was an American steamship and railroad builder, executive, financier, and promoter. He was a man of boundless energy, and his acute business sense enabled him to outmaneuver his rivals. He left an estate of almost $100 million.
Vanderbilt was born to a poor family and quit school at the age of 11 to work for his father who was engaged in boating. When he turned 16 he persuaded his mother to give him $100 loan for a boat to start his first business. He opened a transport and freight service between New York City and Staten Island for eighteen cents a trip. He repaid the loan after the first year with an additional $1,000. He was rough in manners and developed a reputation for honesty. He charged reasonable prices and worked prodigiously.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
William Kissam Vanderbilt II’s grandfather inherited $100 million from his father- the Commodore. A railroad tycoon, he doubled his inheritance and also died as “the richest man in the world”.
William Kissam Vanderbilt II’s father inherited $55 million from his father and retired from the family business in 1903. After a nasty split with his wife (and mother of his two sons- Henry and Willie K.- her name was Alva Smith), the father retired to France to breed race horses and died in 1920.
from wikipedia
Vanderbilt’s first wife was Alva Erskine Smith (1853–1933), whom he married on April 20, 1875. Born in 1853 to a slave-owning Alabama family, she was the mother of his children and was instrumental in forcing their daughter Consuelo (1877–1964) to marry the 9th Duke of Marlborough in 1895. Not long after this, the Vanderbilts divorced and Alva married Oliver Hazard Perry Belmont.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
William Kissam Vanderbilt II had the well bred Vanderbilt instinct for spending the limitless fortune on houses of splendor and whimsical inspirations. He built a race track on Long Island, the first high speed road other than the Long Island Railroad. Fishermen and farmers, native to the area, commented that it was just so Willie K. could get back to the Eagle’s Nest from Manhattan quicker.
from wikipedia
The Long Island Motor Parkway (LIMP), also known as the Vanderbilt Parkway and Motor Parkway, was the first roadway designed for automobile use only.[2] It was privately built by William Kissam Vanderbilt with overpasses and bridges to remove intersections. It opened in 1908 as a toll road and closed in 1938 when it was taken over by the State of New York in lieu of back taxes. Parts of the parkway survive today in sections of other roadways and as a bicycle trail in Queens, New York.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
All around the property, a strange collection of buildings can be found. A planetarium with a Terra Cotta dome (which was actually an add on by the State of the New York in 1971, Vanderbilt needed no help imagining the heavens)…
from vanderbiltmuseum.org
The Vanderbilt Planetarium opened in 1971 on the grounds of the Vanderbilt estate, and it is the largest facility of its kind on Long Island. The Planetarium’s purpose is to provide visitors with information about the nighttime sky. The Planetarium’s main feature is the domed, 60-foot Sky Theater. The theater’s GOTO star projector can display the sun, moon, stars and planets. It also recreates celestial events during our various Sky Shows. The projector can simulate the heavens at any moment in time, from the distant past to the future, as it appeared from any place on Earth. The projector can show 11,369 stars, the Milky Way and several deep sky objects. This allows Planetarium staff to recreate the visible night sky, as seen under perfect conditions.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
And the Hall of Fishes.
also from vanderbiltmuseum.org
The 43-acre museum complex counts among its collections not only the Gold Coast-era mansion [1910-1936], a marine museum, natural history habitats, curator’s cottage, seaplane hangar, boathouse and numerous other estate features [gardens, fountains, balustrades and pools], but also marine and natural history specimens, house furnishings and fine arts, photographs and archives, and an extensive collection of ethnographic objects that make up the former William K. Vanderbilt II estate. A portion of today’s museum – the Hall of Fish – was actually opened to the public during Vanderbilt’s lifetime. Then, as now, the museum seeks to preserve and interpret artifacts that represent his life, collecting interests and intellectual legacy.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Moorish rather than Spanish revival, the small museum forbids visitors to its second floor. Attendants and Curator alike claim that the structure is damaged by weather and the upper level is quite inhospitable to specimen and visitor alike.
from examiner.com
The first floor of the Hall of Fishes displays a large collection of mounted animals and marine specimens. The second floor contains hundreds of marine vertebrates and invertebrates. Many of the displayed marine forms are the only such specimens in existence, collected, identified, and named by Vanderbilt and his staff.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Striking violations of architectural norms are witnessed here. Metalwork not dreamt of in the fevered mind of the hashish addict is observed. When queried, the posted guard described the madly fanciful use of iron as functional instead. Its fabricator and designer shows the skill of a Vesuvian cyclops.
from wikipedia
Samuel Yellin (1885–1940), American master blacksmith, was born in Galicia Poland where at the age of eleven he was apprenticed to an iron master. By the age of sixteen had had completed his apprenticeship. During that period he gained the nickname of “Devil”, both for his work habits and his sense of humor. Shortly after this he left Poland, traveling through Europe to England, where, in 1906, he departed for America.By 1907 he was taking classes at the Philadelphia Museum School of Industrial Art and within a year was teaching classes there, a position that he maintained until 1919.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
William Kissam Vanderbilt II- it is said- on one of his expeditions, was inspired by a church he had witnessed in coastal Guatemala which influenced the whimsical design of the Hall of Fishes.
A hybrid of wholesome Catholic iconography which had become fused with the atavist worship of some lost tribal sea god, its affect is disturbing. Decadent admixtures such as this speak to declining faith in one’s own culture, and seek legitimacy in a postmodern cocktail of Barbarian and Civilized themes.
from archive.org
The Vanderbilt Marine Museum is the privately owned depository of the marine collections of William K. Vanderbilt, Esquire, and is located on his country estate, “Eagle’s Nest,” Huntington, Long Island, New York. It contains extensive collections of natural history and ethnological specimens, all of which were personally collected by Mr. Vanderbilt, in various parts of the world, during the past thirty- odd years.
The scientific publications of the museum consist of a series of Bulletins, designed to disseminate results of research based on the marine zoological collections, every specimen of which was personally collected by Mr. Vanderbilt, during a series of cruises in his yachts, “Eagle,” “Ara” and “Alva.” Volume I of the Bulletin series consists of reports on the fishes collected during these cruises, by Dr. N. A. Borodin.
Volume II consists of a report on the Stomatopod and Brachyuran Crustacea of the cruises of the yachts “Eagle” and ” Ara,” 1921- 1928, by Lee Boone. Volume III consists of a report of the Crustacea : Anomura, Macrura, Schizopoda, Isopoda, Amphipoda, Mysidacea, Cirripedia and Copepoda of the “Eagle” and ” Ara” cruises, also by Lee Boone. Volume IV consists of a report of the Echinodermata, Coelenterata and Mollusca of the cruises of the yachts “Eagle” and “Ara,” 1921-1928, by Lee Boone. Volume V, the present report, consists of a report of the Crustacea : Stomatopoda and Brachyura of the World Cruise of the yacht “Alva,” 1931, by Lee Boone.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Evocative statuary, owing much to pre columbian native influences, adorns the Vanderbilt collection’s housing. Hybridized and anthromorphized, the relief is icthyan, alien, and ripe with disturbing implications of some forgotten and ancestral memory.
from atlasobscura.com
The Vanderbilt Museum on Long Island, New York is housed in the mansion once owned by William K. Venderbilt II (the great-grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, founder of the New York Central Railroad and the Staten Island Ferry). “Willie K.” was an avid sailor and collector. He traveled around the globe, collecting artifacts and natural history specimens, some from the ocean floor by Willie K. himself, as he loved to dive.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The entrance to the Hall of the fishes, guarded by a medieval vintage fortress door of sturdy arab or north african design, which is studded with iron spikes (that have had their points ground off, for safety reasons).
More tomorrow…
Vanderbilt Mansion 1
– photo by Mitch Waxman
There are unbearable realities hidden all around the Great City. Not so far from the center, geographically at least, is the North Shore of Long Island- the so called Gold Coast. Saturnian splendors adorn the palaces of these 19th century oligarchs, grand decoration and philosophical landscaping owe much to Versailles in these places, and many grand estates dot the coastline. For Pratt, and Whitney, and Dodge– who made their fortunes along the Newtown Creek- sylvan bliss was available on Long Island.
One of these country houses, The Eagle’s Nest, belonged to William Kissam Vanderbilt II- Willie K. to his friends and the press.
Yes, those Vanderbilts.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Great-Grandson of the Commodore, Vanderbilt was an advocate and early promoter for the sport of automobile racing and was reported on by contemporaneous members of the nautical community as being quite an able mariner.
Born to unnatural splendor, the fortunate son nevertheless launched expeditions to previously unexplored oceanic destinations, creating in the process a splendid catalog of flora and fauna. What else he may have been searching for, and what trophies he held for his private amusement, is the subject of whispered innuendo. His personal navy included the purpose built steamships Tarantula, the Eagle, and especially the Alva and the Ara.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
A hired crew of artisans, engineers, and archaeologists accompanied Vanderbilt on his missions. They captured and preserved hundreds of specimens from the benthic depths, and experienced adventure best described as pulp fiction as they moved amongst the colonial holdings of Europe in the Pacific and along the savage coastlines of the equator. If this sounds like Indiana Jones, it should, just replace Indy with Bruce Wayne or Doc Savage and you’ve got the picture. One of the young Vanderbilt’s buddies was a guy named Howard Hughes.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Vanderbilt collected, in addition to everything that flops and flaps in the cold darkness of the sea, what he termed “ethnographic” objects. There’s an actual Egyptian mummy in the house, as well as catalogs of other preserved animals. A disturbing heterogeneousness marks the collection, a connection between items and subjects seems missing. Across the inlet from his mansion- which was deep enough to accommodate ocean going ships at his private dock (there is also a sea plane dock down at the water’s edge), is the Northport Power Station. Its towers oddly mimic those found at the balustrade at the house’s entrance.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The house itself, there are several buildings scattered around the property, is meant to evoke a spaniard’s taste. Such longing for their ancient masters ill befits a Dutch line such as the Vanderbilts, even as it plunged into 20th century degeneracy. Guides at the mansion explained that Vanderbilt was inspired by a church he had seen in Guatemala, which had influenced the design and motif of the entire complex. Vanderbilt was overcome by icthyan motif, one pregnant with hideous implications.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
His city address was 666 fifth avenue, part of the Vanderbilt continuum of mansions present along that stretch of the great thoroughfare, and he took up his ancestral responsibility and assumed a leadership role at the New York Central Railroad.
After the death of his father, Willie K. became known as William K. Vanderbilt II, one of America’s richest and most powerful men. His son, an adventurer in his own right- William K. Vanderbilt III- died in a mysterious auto accident returning from the family estate in Florida- where another fleet of research vessels and another unique collection was maintained.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
When I heard that the first annual Obscura Day tours were going on, and that the New York leg would be visiting the Eagle’s Nest, our Lady of the Pentacle and I jumped at the chance. We travelled via the LIRR, to meet Willie K.
More tomorrow.
Roosevelt Island Tram work
– photo by Mitch Waxman
There are a few things in our neighborhood that I’m paying attention to at the moment. One, of course, is the LIC Millstones story. Another is the Roosevelt Island Tramway project.
Interesting from a few different angles, the project will replace the current system with a modernized tramway designed to operate in a safer and more elegant fashion. As mentioned in the past, your humble narrator is a frequent user of the pedestrian crossing on the Queensboro bridge, and the Tram project literally is just next door.
from rioc.com
On March 1, 2010, two months shy of the 34th anniversary of its opening, service on the Roosevelt Island Aerial Tramway will be suspended for six months for extensive modernization and upgrades. Opened in May 1976, the Tram (the first aerial tramway system in the U.S. to be used for urban mass transportation) was projected to have a useful life of 17 years. Installed as a “stop gap” measure, because promised subway service to Roosevelt Island had been delayed by decades, the Tram has served New Yorkers well, currently carrying over 2 million passengers per year.
The once “stop gap” Tram has become an icon of the New York City skyline. Since 2005 Tram service has been integrated with the MTA’s MetroCard system, providing Tram riders with bus and subway transfer privileges enjoyed by other MTA passengers. The Tram modernization, projected to cost up to $25 million, is being funded with $10 million from RIOC and $15 million from New York State.
When modernization work is completed, virtually everything constituting the aerial tramway system will have been replaced except the bases of the three towers that support the cables on which it runs which have been deemed safe by engineers. The tower tops will be replaced to accommodate a wider cable gauge, “dual haul” system, a more advanced cable operating system available as a result of advances made in “ropeway” (as cable-propelled transit systems are known) technology in the 33 plus years since installation of the Roosevelt Island system.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The Roosevelt Island Tram is officially a State of New York, rather than City of New York responsibility. Oddly enough, I’ve never ridden on it. Guess I’ll have to wait a few months. Of course, months in New York construction projects always tend to stretch into years, with seeming connection to election cycles.
from wikipedia
The Roosevelt Island Tramway is an aerial tramway in New York City that spans the East River and connects Roosevelt Island to Manhattan. Prior to the completion of the Mississippi Aerial River Transit in May 1984 and the Portland Aerial Tram in December 2006, it was the only commuter aerial tramway in North America. Since March 1, 2010, the tram has been closed for a modernization program that is expected to complete in six months.
Over 26 million passengers have used the tram since it began operation in 1976. Each cabin has a capacity of up to 125 people and makes approximately 115 trips per day. The tram moves at about 16 mph (26 km/h) and travels 3,100 feet (940 m) in 4.5 minutes. At its peak it climbs to 250 feet (76 m) above the East River as it follows its route on the north side of the Queensboro Bridge, providing views of the East Side of midtown Manhattan. Two cabins make the run at fifteen minute intervals from 6:00 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. (3:30 a.m. on weekends) and continuously during rush hours. It is one of the few forms of mass transit in New York City not run by the Metropolitan Transportation Authority, but uses that system’s MetroCard.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Terrible inconvenience must be felt on Roosevelt Island, having lost one of its three links with the larger islands that surround it. There is a subway station, of course, which might be the deepest one in the system save for a stop in northern Manhattan.
from forgotten-ny.com
Native Americans called the island Minnehanak (“a great place to live”), but it has gone under a variety of names in English. The Dutch called it Varkens, or Hog Island. Its first permanent resident was Captain John Manning, a disgraced British naval officer who allowed Fort Amsterdam (on Governor’s Island) to fall to the Dutch in 1673.
Upon Manning’s death the island was passed on to his stepdaughter Mary and her husband, Robert Blackwell, and the island stayed in the Blackwell family till 1823, retaining the name “Blackwell’s Island” for years after that.
Blackwell’s Island became Welfare Island in 1921, and finally, since 1973, Roosevelt Island; a substantial memorial to Franklin Delano Roosevelt was supposed to occupy the island’s southern tip, but the plans were scotched when architect Louis Kahn passed away. Other accounts have Roosevelt Islanders wanting more open space rather than a memorial.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The guys working on this trapeze act, who I’ve christened “Crazy Bastards” in previous posts on this subject, have obviously overcome any fear of heights. They must be invulnerable to Vertigo.
from Charles Dicken’s “American Notes” Chapter 6 (New York) at ebooks.adelaide.edu.au
One day, during my stay in New York, I paid a visit to the different public institutions on Long Island, or Rhode Island: I forget which. One of them is a Lunatic Asylum. The building is handsome; and is remarkable for a spacious and elegant staircase. The whole structure is not yet finished, but it is already one of considerable size and extent, and is capable of accommodating a very large number of patients.
I cannot say that I derived much comfort from the inspection of this charity. The different wards might have been cleaner and better ordered; I saw nothing of that salutary system which had impressed me so favourably elsewhere; and everything had a lounging, listless, madhouse air, which was very painful. The moping idiot, cowering down with long dishevelled hair; the gibbering maniac, with his hideous laugh and pointed finger; the vacant eye, the fierce wild face, the gloomy picking of the hands and lips, and munching of the nails: there they were all, without disguise, in naked ugliness and horror. In the dining-room, a bare, dull, dreary place, with nothing for the eye to rest on but the empty walls, a woman was locked up alone. She was bent, they told me, on committing suicide. If anything could have strengthened her in her resolution, it would certainly have been the insupportable monotony of such an existence.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I realize, of course, that they’re wearing safety rigs. Doesn’t change the sweaty palmed anticipation of leaning out over the East River some 200-225 feet up.
from Nellie Bly’s “Ten Days in a Madhouse” at digital.library.upenn.edu
When we reached the wharf such a mob of people crowded around the wagon that the police were called to put them away, so that we could reach the boat. I was the last of the procession. I was escorted down the plank, the fresh breeze blowing the attendants’ whisky breath into my face until I staggered. I was taken into a dirty cabin, where I found my companions seated on a narrow bench. The small windows were closed, and, with the smell of the filthy room, the air was stifling. At one end of the cabin was a small bunk in such a condition that I had to hold my nose when I went near it. A sick girl was put on it. An old woman, with an enormous bonnet and a dirty basket filled with chunks of bread and bits of scrap meat, completed our company. The door was guarded by two female attendants. One was clad in a dress made of bed-ticking and the other was dressed with some attempt at style. They were coarse, massive women, and expectorated tobacco juice about on the floor in a manner more skillful than charming. One of these fearful creatures seemed to have much faith in the power of the glance on insane people, for, when any one of us would move or go to look out of the high window she would say “Sit down,” and would lower her brows and glare in a way that was simply terrifying. While guarding the door they talked with some men on the outside. They discussed the number of patients and then their own affairs in a manner neither edifying nor refined.
The boat stopped and the old woman and the sick girl were taken off. The rest of us were told to sit still. At the next stop my companions were taken off, one at a time. I was last, and it seemed to require a man and a woman to lead me up the plank to reach the shore. An ambulance was standing there, and in it were the four other patients.
“What is this place?” I asked of the man, who had his fingers sunk into the flesh of my arm.
“Blackwell’s Island, an insane place, where you’ll never get out of.”
With this I was shoved into the ambulance, the springboard was put up, an officer and a mail-carrier jumped on behind, and I was swiftly driven to the Insane Asylum on Blackwell’s Island.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I’ll keep y’all posted on the subject. Lords and Ladies of Newtown.
Also: Check out this trailer from tcm.com for Blackwell’s Island, the Alcatraz of the East
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
– photo by Mitch Waxman
A trappist abbot named de LeStrange, hiding in New York from the oppressions of the Corsican antichrist- Bonaparte- in 1813, purchased this land on 5th avenue between 50th and 51st streets from the Jesuits for $10,000.
from saintpatrickscathedral.org
While her cornerstone was laid in 1858 and her doors swept open in 1879, it was over 150 years ago, when Archbishop John Hughes announced his inspired ambition to build the “new” Saint Patrick’s Cathedral.
In a ceremony at Old Saint Patrick’s Cathedral, Archbishop Hughes proposed “for the glory of Almighty God, for the honor of the Blessed and Immaculate Virgin, for the exaltation of Holy Mother Church, for the dignity of our ancient and glorious Catholic name, to erect a Cathedral in the City of New York that may be worthy of our increasing numbers, intelligence, and wealth as a religious community, and at all events, worthy as a public architectural monument, of the present and prospective crowns of this metropolis of the American continent.”
Ridiculed as “Hughes’ Folly,” as the proposed, near-wilderness site was considered too far outside the city, Archbishop Hughes, nonetheless, persisted in his daring vision of building the most beautiful, Gothic Cathedral in the New World in what he believed would one day be “the heart of the city.” Neither the bloodshed of the Civil War, nor the resultant lack of manpower or funds, would derail the ultimate fulfillment of Hughes’ dream and Architect, James Renwick’s bold plan.
Through the generosity of 103 citizens who pledged $1,000 each and the collective “pennies” of thousands of largely Irish, immigrant poor, Hughes’ vision became a shining reality.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
After the Trappists returned to France, following the downfall of Napoleon, the land lay feral and abandoned- and was set aside for future usage as a cemetery. The Archbishop of New York, an Irishman named John Joseph Hughes (who also created the Parochial School System, I would add) decided in 1853 to replace the “old” St. Patrick’s on Mulberry Street with something a little finer.
from wikipedia
He was consecrated bishop on January 7, 1838 with the titular see of Basileopolis. He succeeded to the bishopric of the diocese of New York on December 20, 1842 and became an archbishop on July 19, 1850, when the diocese was elevated to the status of archdiocese. He campaigned actively on behalf of Irish immigrants, and attempted to secure state support for religious schools. He protested against the United States Government for using the King James Bible in public schools, claiming that it was an attack on Catholic constitutional rights of double taxation, because Catholics would need to pay taxes for public school and also pay for the private school to send their children, to avoid the Protestant translation of the Bible. When he failed to secure state support, he founded an independent Catholic school system which was taken into the Catholic Church’s core at the Third Plenary Council of Baltimore, 1884, which mandated that all Parishes have a parochial school and that all Catholic children be sent to those schools.
He founded Manhattan College, St. John’s College (now Fordham University), the Academy of Mount St. Vincent {now (College of Mount Saint Vincent)and Marymount College. and began construction of St. Patrick’s Cathedral. He served until his death. He was originally buried in old St. Patrick’s Cathedral and was exhumed and reinterred in the crypt under the altar of the new cathedral.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Prominent and favored by the powers that were, an engineer and architect named James Renwick Jr. designed the Cathedral. It is virtually impossible for the New Yorkers of this 21st century to understand the prestige of building a cathedral (primarily) for the Irish in the 19th century. A brogue was the price of admission to city government back then, and the stereotypical Irish cop, fireman, and politician were manifest archetypes.
from wikipedia
Renwick was born into a wealthy and well-educated family. His mother, Margaret Brevoort, was from a wealthy and socially prominent New York family. His father, James Renwick, was an engineer, architect, and professor of natural philosophy at Columbia College, now Columbia University. His two brothers were also engineers. Renwick is buried in Green-Wood Cemetery in Brooklyn, New York, with his wife and father.
Renwick was not formally trained as an architect. His ability and interest in building design were nurtured through his cultivated background, which granted him early exposure to travel, and through a broad cultural education that included architectural history. He learned the skills from his father. He studied engineering at Columbia, entering at age twelve and graduating in 1836. He received an M.A. three years later. On graduating, he took a position as structural engineer with the Erie Railroad and subsequently served as supervisor on the Croton Reservoir, acting as an assistant engineer on the Croton Aqueduct in New York
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Many additions have been made to Renwick’s original design, including a dwelling for the Archbishop and Rectory. Every generation has found some reason to alter and magnify the structure, which is the seat of the Archdiocese of New York. The Archdiocese of New York is a larger Catholic organization than exists in many countries.
from wikipedia
Work was begun in 1858 but was halted during the Civil War and resumed in 1865. The cathedral was completed in 1878 and dedicated on May 25, 1879, its huge proportions dominating the midtown of that time. The archbishop’s house and rectory were added from 1882 to 1884, and an adjacent school (no longer in existence) opened in 1882. The towers on the west façade were added in 1888, and an addition on the east, including a Lady chapel, designed by Charles T. Mathews, was begun in 1901. The stained-glass windows in the Lady Chapel were designed and made in Chipping Campden, England by Paul Vincent Woodroffe between 1912 and 1930. The cathedral was renovated between 1927 and 1931 when the great organ was installed and the sanctuary enlarged.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York, Archidioecesis Neo-Eboracensis, covers some 480 parishes and ministers to the roughly 2.5 million believers in its territory. St. Patrick’s is the ceremonial center of the organization.
from wikipedia
The Roman Catholic Archdiocese of New York covers New York, Bronx, and Richmond counties in New York City (coterminous with the boroughs of Manhattan, The Bronx, and Staten Island, respectively), as well as Dutchess, Orange, Putnam, Rockland, Sullivan, Ulster, and Westchester counties in New York state. There are 480 parishes. The Archdiocese of New York is the metropolitan see of the ecclesiastical province of New York which includes the suffragan dioceses of Brooklyn, Albany, Buffalo, Syracuse, Rochester, Ogdensburg, and Rockville Centre.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Major renovations to the structure, particularly the altars happened during the tenure of Cardinal Francis Spellman. Spellman was a firebrand priest and political operator cast in the Medici mold, with a long list of foes and allies, and an anti-communist. He also figures into the history of Calvary Cemetery, prominently.
from wikipedia
Vehemently anti-Communist, Spellman once said that “a true American can neither be a Communist nor a Communist condoner” and that “the first loyalty of every American is vigilantly to weed out and counteract Communism and convert American Communists to Americanism”. He was firm supporter of Joseph McCarthy. In 1949, when gravediggers at Calvary Cemetery in Queens went on strike for a pay raise, the Cardinal accused them of being Communists and recruited seminarians from St. Joseph’s Seminary as strikebreakers. He described the actions of the gravediggers, who belonged to the Food, Tobacco, Agricultural, and Allied Workers Union of America, as “an unjustified and immoral strike against the innocent dead and their bereaved families, against their religion and human decency”. The strike was supported by such figures as Dorothy Day and Ernest Hemingway, who wrote a scathing letter to Spellman. Spellman defended Senator Joseph McCarthy’s 1953 investigations of Communist subversives in the federal government, stating at an April 1954 breakfast attended by the Senator that McCarthy had “told us about the Communists and about Communist methods” and that he was “not only against communism—but … against the methods of the Communists”.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
It was actually the Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral people from the Five Points who founded Calvary Cemetery in Queens, but it’s the New Cathedral’s offices that have dominion over the marble heart of the Newtown Pentacle today.
The Trustees also displayed a keen foresight in acquiring property for cemetery use and also great diligence and prudence in caring for and managing the cemeteries. In 1829, a tract of land was purchased, on what is not 50th Street, for use as a cemetery.
The purchased gave rise to much criticism because the property was so far beyond the city limits. This property was later used as the site of St. Patrick’s Cathedral.
Property closer to the city limits was acquired in 1832. Located between 11th and 12th Streets, from Avenue A to 1st Avenue, this parcel of land known as the 11th Street Cemetery, was opened for interments in 1833 and was used for the burial of Catholics until the year 1848.
Before that date, the Trustees came to the conclusion that the rapidly growing Catholic population of New York made necessary the acquisition of more cemetery property. It was decided that a large parcel of land would be necessary to satisfy the cemeteryrequirements of a growing population and so in 1845, the Trustees purchased the ALSOP Farm, consisting of 115 acres in Newtown Township, Long Island.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The center of Manhattan’s urban life lay far south of 50th street when the Cathedral was built. What Times and Herald Square are to modernity, Union Station was. The great press and tumult of tenement New York, where the “old” St. Patrick’s Cathedral still stands, did not appeal to the Irish who had “made it” into the bourgeois class via the seeming experiment in social Darwinism which was called the Five Points.
from wikipedia
The neighborhood took form by about 1820 next to the site of the former Collect Pond, which had been drained due to a severe pollution problem. The landfill job on the Collect was a poor one, and surface seepage to the southeast created swampy, insect-ridden conditions resulting in a precipitous drop in land value. Most middle and upper class inhabitants fled, leaving the neighborhood completely open to the influx of poor immigrants that started in the early 1820s and reached a torrent in the 1840s due to the Irish Potato Famine. It was situated close enough for a walking commute to the large mercantile employers of the day in and around the dockyards at the island’s southern tip, but it was far enough away from the built-up Wall Street area to allow a total remake of character.
At Five Points’ “height,” only certain areas of London’s East End vied with it in the western world for sheer population density, disease, infant and child mortality, unemployment, prostitution, violent crime, and other classic ills of the urban destitute. However, it was the original American melting pot, at first consisting primarily of newly emancipated African Americans (gradual emancipation led to the end of slavery in New York on July 4, 1827), and newly arrived Irish.
The rough and tumble local politics of “the ould Sixth ward” (The Points’ primary municipal voting district), while not free of corruption, set important precedents for the election of non-Anglo-Saxons to key offices. Although the tensions between the African Americans and the Irish were legendary, their cohabitation in Five Points was the first large-scale instance of volitional racial integration in American history. In the end, the Five Points African American community moved to Manhattan’s West Side and to the then-undeveloped north of the island.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
When first built, St. Patrick’s towered over the surrounding area’s building stock. The 20th century put an end to that, especially when the Rockefellers built their 22 acre “center” around it. Rockefeller center represents a composite eight million square feet of commercial real estate, spread out amongst 19 skyscrapers.
from wikipedia
Rockefeller Center is a complex of 19 commercial buildings covering 22 acres (89,000 m2) between 48th and 51st streets in New York City. Built by the Rockefeller family, it is located in the center of Midtown Manhattan, spanning the area between Fifth Avenue and Sixth Avenue. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Eight Archbishops of the Roman Catholic church are entombed in St. Patrick’s, 6 of whom held the office of Cardinal. 4 other officers of the See are entombed here as well- including the Haitian “venerable” Pierre Toussaint who is on the road to being declared a Saint.
from wikipedia
Venerable Pierre Toussaint (1766 – June 30, 1853) was born in Haïti. He learned to read and write and he came to New York from Haiti in 1787. In New York, he became an apprentice to one of the city’s leading hairdressers.
Pierre Toussaint quickly became a popular abolitionist. He was freed from slavery when his owner died in 1807 and later became quite wealthy. He fell in love with another slave, Juliette Noel, and purchased her freedom when she was only fifteen years old. Noel married Toussaint and together they set out to help those in need in New York City. They opened their home as a shelter for orphans, a credit bureau, an employment agency and refuge for priests and poverty stricken travelers. Toussaint also funded money to build a new Roman Catholic church in New York, which became Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral on Mulberry Street.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I was in the area, having met with a new advertising client- a rare thing in the last few years due to the “Great Recession”- and was thunderstruck by the quality of the light hitting St. Patrick’s. The mirror surfaces of the hideous internationalist style office buildings- expressions of anti republic quasi fascism to my opinion- act as enormous “gelled’ light sources illuminating the Neo-Gothic structure they surround.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
An observation and opinion:
I rail against “LeCorbusier” and the “International Style” a lot. My opinion is that of a consumer, not an architect or engineer. Life as a freelance commercial artist in New York City has taken me to a lot of places and office buildings over the years, and the worst ones are those where only the bosses get to look out a window every now and then. I’ve worked for ad agencies or corporate graphics operations in:
- World Trade Center (which swayed uncomfortably, was huge and drafty, and difficult to get lunch)
- Empire State (cramped and dark, with lousy bathrooms)
- Chrysler Building (same complaints as Empire)
- Worldwide Plaza (not too bad, although environmental ventilation sucks)
- Rockefeller Center itself (in one of the original 19 and one of the Internationals on sixth avenue… there’s an enormous underground complex down there, by the way- guys ride around in little carts with flashing lights- looks just like you’d think Area 51 would)
- Saatchi Building (aces! and I used to watch Fireboats training on the Hudson from my desk)
The best buildings to work in are generally below 23rd street, however, the ones whose former lighting system- gas pipes- are still visible. Today, many of those gas pipes carry high speed fiber optic cables. Windows are openable, you are close to the street, and lunch options are abundant. There’s a real mix of people on the sidewalks, and such intercourse between strangers is critical to democracy and identification of one’s self as being part of a community.
Hudson River
Another of those crazy days, I was invited to ride along on the yacht Manhattan recently, as it made its journey home to Scarano Boatbuilders in Albany for a checkup and scheduled maintenance. The day was unfortunately misty, but the slideshow will show you what I saw. There’s a couple of sequences in here which will get the full treatment- Esopus Island for instance- but that’s way off in the future. Right now, check out a trip from Manhattan to Albany via the Hudson River.







































