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A shrine in Greenpoint

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from wikipedia:

Greenpoint is largely middle class and multi-generational; it is not uncommon to find three generations of family members living in this community. The neighborhood is sometimes referred to as “Little Poland” due to its large population of working-class Polish immigrants, reportedly the second largest concentration in the United States after Chicago. Greenpoint is not only populated with Polish immigrants and Polish-Americans, a significant population of Hispanics can be found north of Greenpoint Avenue. Italian Americans and Irish Americans can be found in the southeastern section of Greenpoint.

ret_g10_img_1307_ohny2.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Walking the blasted earth of storied Greenpoint- after visiting the Temple of Cloacina– Our Lady of the Pentacle and myself decided to visit the Newtown Creek Nature Walk, and on our way encountered this roadside shrine on Provost Street.

European custom often places such tributes at the scene of a fatal accident or tragedy along roadsides. Greece, in my own observation, is noteworthy for the quality and design of such shrines. In Crete, a freestanding steel structure whose paramount is a miniature of an Orthodox Church complete with glass doors and votive candles is commonly on sale in hardware stores and garden centers. Such shrines line the mountain roads, clustering around sharp turns and narrow lanes.

I am ignorant of the slavic tongues, but research for this post has been revelatory.

Could this have been the car involved in the crash? Location wise, this would be the spot- Provost between Huron and Green.

ret_g10_img_1308_ohny2.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Sadly, this memorial honors a pretty young guy. Newtown Pentacle, on behalf of our readers, offers our sympathies to the family and friends of the occupants of the car.

badly translated excerpt from Polish language news site seusa.info

Recall Daniel Skiba died tragically in a car accident on Saturday. Returning together with club colleague from Europe crashed its annual black Acura TL Type S sports car even owinęło around the tree at the intersection of Huron St.. and Provost St. He had no chance of survival, she was taken to hospital.

ret_g10_img_1311_ohny2.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The tradition of memorial devotions seen here, undoubtedly created by loving friends and intimate relations, goes back a very long way in Polish culture.

Just as a footnote, I’ll mention that I consider the history of the Poles as another of the important “forgotten tales” in the history of the world alongside the Ottomans, Toltecs, and Khmer. I did a post about Pulaski (both bridge and szlachta) a while back, which is a good jumping off point for the Polish story.

from polandpoland.com

Should you ever travel the roads of Poland, it won’t be long before you notice either a religious figure, cross, statue, or a building that resembles a little house or miniature chapel along the roadside. These small religious chapels or shrines are commonly called roadside or wayside shrines. In Polish, they are called kapliczki. These shrines were often built at the expense of individuals, families and sometimes entire villages to publicly thank a saint or God for a benefit or blessing received. In the case of smaller shrines they acted as a remembrance for a tragedy or crime. Recently constructed shrines are usually on a much smaller scale and most often mark the spot where a fatal traffic accident occurred.

ret_g10_img_1313_ohny2.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

from polamjournal.com

The word origin of kapliczka is distinctly Christian. As far back as the 7th century, a small building containing the coat and relics of St. Marcin began to be called capella, a diminutive of the Latin cappa, meaning cover or cloak. In countries accepting Christianity, capella became a common term for every small building outside of a church that gave shelter to a religious object or figure. In Poland, the term emerged as kapla, kaple, and eventually kaplica, meaning chapel. Kapliczka, a diminutive of kaplica, refers to something smaller than an actual chapel; the words today, however, are used almost interchangeably

Polish ethnographers claim that kapliczki, or roadside shrines, have their origins in ancient pagan traditions and Christian religious beliefs. In the times of our ancient pagan ancestors, the outer boundaries of a village or the place where two roads met, was considered to be an evil place where unfriendly spirits waited to pounce upon the unsuspecting traveler. By the same token, certain trees were seen as having magical powers. Water also had magical properties. Pagan shrines were placed at the feet of such sites and various cult activities occurred here. With the acceptance of Christianity, old beliefs and rites were hard to abandon. Our ancestors sought to protect their old beliefs yet incorporate the new faith. As a result, many kapliczki are found near trees that were believed to have magical powers such as linden, birch or sycamore trees. The mighty oak had similar properties as did evergreens. The linden, for instance, was considered especially sacred as protection against lightening and evil spirits. Later, within the Christian realm, the linden tree was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Sycamore leaves had the power to remove spells, but were also utilized on St. John’s Eve as window and door decorations to prevent entry by witches.

The word origin of kapliczka is distinctly Christian. As far back as the 7th century, a small building containing the coat and relics of St. Marcin began to be called capella, a diminutive of the Latin cappa, meaning cover or cloak. In countries accepting Christianity, capella became a common term for every small building outside of a church that gave shelter to a religious object or figure. In Poland, the term emerged as kapla, kaple, and eventually kaplica, meaning chapel. Kapliczka, a diminutive of kaplica, refers to something smaller than an actual chapel; the words today, however, are used almost interchangeably
Polish ethnographers claim that kapliczki, or roadside shrines, have their origins in ancient pagan traditions and Christian religious beliefs. In the times of our ancient pagan ancestors, the outer boundaries of a village or the place where two roads met, was considered to be an evil place where unfriendly spirits waited to pounce upon the unsuspecting traveler. By the same token, certain trees were seen as having magical powers. Water also had magical properties. Pagan shrines were placed at the feet of such sites and various cult activities occurred here. With the acceptance of Christianity, old beliefs and rites were hard to abandon. Our ancestors sought to protect their old beliefs yet incorporate the new faith. As a result, many kapliczki are found near trees that were believed to have magical powers such as linden, birch or sycamore trees. The mighty oak had similar properties as did evergreens. The linden, for instance, was considered especially sacred as protection against lightening and evil spirits. Later, within the Christian realm, the linden tree was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Sycamore leaves had the power to remove spells, but were also utilized on St. John’s Eve as window and door decorations to prevent entry by witches.

Written by Mitch Waxman

October 20, 2009 at 2:41 am

Posted in newtown creek

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Apple Juice, OHNY 2009

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Caveat- What I know about electrical engineering wouldn’t produce enough charge to power an LED. Also, some of the information I’m passing on is sourced back to Open House New York flyers distributed at the event (just for proper attribution), handed out and written by Robert W. Lobenstein– General Superintendent of NYC Transit titled “A Walk Through History”. If I get something wrong, please contact me and we’ll make any appropriate corrections.

This isn’t actually the MTA Substation site- its around a block away and a completely different structure. Its just such good typography…- photo by Mitch Waxman

MTA Substations transmogrify high voltage Alternating Current charges, which flows from a central generator or powerhouse, into the 625 volts Direct Current electrifying the “third rail” which the fleets of Subway cars feed upon to gain their motive action- and fuel the various devices and systems found onboard a modern train (or rapid transit, to be accurate. The term train generally refers to a self actuating mechanism with a mobile locomotive powerplant – or engine- driving the action).

from ohny.org

MTA Substation
225 W 53rd St/ Broadway , New York
neighborhood: Midtown
opendialogue Sat 11 am, 1 pm tours with Robert Lobentstein, General Superintendent Power of Operations of NYC MTA Transit.
Maximum people: 25 per tour
building date: 1901, opened 1904
architect: Heins & LaFarge
other architects/consultants: William Barclay Parsons, McKim, Mead & White

MTA Substation
225 W 53rd St/ Broadway , New York
neighborhood: Midtown
opendialogue Sat 11 am, 1 pm tours with Robert Lobentstein, General Superintendent Power of Operations of NYC MTA Transit.
Maximum people: 25 per tour
building date: 1901, opened 1904
architect: Heins & LaFarge
other architects/consultants: William Barclay Parsons, McKim, Mead & White

ret_g10_img_0909_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

In the same year that Aleister Crowley wrote his “Book of the Law“, and the General Slocum carried away 1,021 souls at Hells Gate, and Robert Oppenheimer was born- the NYC Subway opened its doors for business (your humble narrator is used to passing the buck on certain subjects- the NYFD for instance- there are REAL experts out there who know far more than me. In the Subway story business, these folks are the tops).

In 1904, the nascent transit system was powered by a vast dynamo mill constructed on west 59th street between 11th and 12th avenues which fed AC current to eight substations (later combinations of IRT below and above shifted the nomen of the units in this group to the “teens”. One became eleven, eight became eighteen) which includes this site.

This is Substation 13.

the Gothamist blog was also here, and they got a great series of photos- lots of stuff I missed or just bungled the shot. Click here for a look.

ret_g10_img_0959_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Here at Substation 13, “giant red buttons which must never be pushed” abound. A sinister and pervasive electronic hum, the sound of nearby modern solid state rectfier equipment busily converting a pulsating flow of gigajoules uncounted, permeates the dark and dusty building. The old substation rotary works went offline in 1999.

from timeout.com

MTA Substation

What it is: One of the MTA’s original power stations, tucked beneath a midtown street.
Why go? Opened in 1904, this is one of eight original IRT substations that served the subway system (for some perspective, there are now 215). View modern generators, as well as historic rotary converters, the subway’s earliest power source.

ret_g10_img_0936_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Specialized and redundant armatures of steel are required to support the weight of each of these 50 ton rotary converters, and to withstand the stresses induced by their operation, although the actual truss that supports them is made from hardwoods. Grounded plating is incorporated into the brick and cement clad structure of the substation, vouchsafing neighboring buildings against electrical manifestations and stray voltage.

from joeclipart.com

It opened in 1904, the same year as the first subway. The mayor, governor and, apocryphally, Thomas Edison and Nikola Tesla, among other dignitaries, arrived at the substation-warming party in horse-drawn buggies.

Old #13 has operated continuously since and today powers the 1 line, which old-timers still call the IRT. Although it houses sinister-looking modern equipment, the substation serves as a de facto museum because it contains original machinery, the centerpiece of which is the Westinghouse 1,500 kilowatt rotary converter. Incredibly, this 50-ton wheel didn’t go offline until 1999.

ret_g10_img_0869_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The converter devices themselves were a constant point of photographic interest for me, the sort of “big” technology that a comic book supervillain might decorate his lair with. On one wall, an animation cel from a Popeye cartoon showed the post Spinach effect of multiple converters spinning within the distaff sailor’s bicep muscle.

from nycsubway.org

Because suitable real estate was difficult to find in the built-up downtown areas, contractor McDonald suggested that some of the sub-stations be placed underground. In February 1901 he requested the aid of the Rapid Transit Commission in acquiring the right to excavate under public lands at City Hall Park, Union Square, and Longacre (Times) Square. McDonald’s contract made him responsible for the purchase of all lands for power facilities and he hoped to cut down his expenses by using city rather than private property. After consulting its lawyers, the Board decided that it lacked authority to grant this request. McDonald had to build his sub-stations above ground.

It was desirable to have the distribution distance to the subway as short as possible after conversion to direct current at the sub-stations. In the downtown areas McDonald obtained sites no more than one-half block from the route. In the far less crowded up-town locations, the Simpson Street and the Hillside Avenue sub-stations were nearly adjacent to the track.

Two adjoining city lots, each 25×100 feet had to be purchased to house sub-station equipment. The resulting 50 foot width allowed installation of eight to ten rotary converters with their sets of transformers. In Sub-station #13 on West 53rd Street, foundations were laid for ten rotaries; the remaining seven were built to receive eight rotaries.

Foundations for eight to ten rotary converters was a provision for the future. The original 1901 Westinghouse contract called for only 26, 1,500-kilowatt rotary converters, or four to five per sub-station. In 1909 Westinghouse responded to a second call, this time for 3,000-kilowatt units. In the plans for the 1916-1918 general system expansion, additional contracts to both Westinghouse and General Electric provided 4,000-kilowatt rotaries, some of which replaced the older 1,500-kilowatt machines. During expansion, [page 330] Sub-station 11 at Park Place was demolished, and its replacement, a half block from the original site was equipped with 4,000-kilowatt units. In 1923 additional 4,000-kilowatt General Electric and Westinghouse units were installed.

The remaining seven of the original eight IRT sub-stations are still standing. Number 19 on West 132nd Street is no longer in use and its equipment has been removed. The others still operate daily [in 1978] with equipment from the earliest installations. [The last of the rotary converter equipment has since been retired.]

ret_g10_img_0881_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Notoriously, your humble narrator is almost always “a day late and dollar short”, and the fabled “caving rig” lighting setup I’ve been working on for nearly a year was still incomplete when the OHNY event happened. I was lucky enough to be carrying a powerful LED electric torch by happenstance, which allowed some of these exposures sufficient quality for publication at  Newtown Pentacle. Quite dark, Substation 13 awaits a creative application of lighting- perhaps the good folks at Strobist can gain access to the site sometime in the future and construct an application of proper illumination.

also from nycsubway.org

Each rotary converter stood in its own hard-wood frame. The frame was not bolted to the Portland cement foundations; the rotary weight was expected to hold the unit in place. The rotaries were the heaviest equipment of the sub-station. Two hand-operated cranes, at the front of each sub-station on the main floor, were provided for the rotary installation and service.

ret_g10_img_0858_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Vast banks of machinery, replete with switches and glassed in gauges, line the walls of Substation 13. I’ve avoided posting photos of the more modern equipment, for a variety of reasons- mainly its not as cool looking, and the light was so bad I couldn’t get a non blurry shot.

from wikipedia

When the first subway opened between 1904 and 1908, one of the main service patterns was the West Side Branch, running from Lower Manhattan to Van Cortlandt Park via what is now the IRT Lexington Avenue Line, 42nd Street Shuttle, and IRT Broadway – Seventh Avenue Line. Both local and express trains were operated, with express trains using the express tracks south of 96th Street. Express trains ran through to Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn during rush hours, while other express trains and all local trains turned around at City Hall or South Ferry.

ret_g10_img_0973_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

A labyrinth of access tunnels and manholes marks the lower level of Substation 13, whose mouldering brick and disintegrating concrete speaks to the infiltration and regular egress of flood waters. Apertures in the roof of the subterranean level look up into the rotary converters, and the walls are lined with empty sockets which once allowed electrical conduits to snake through the masonry.

from mta.info

New York City’s first official subway system opened in Manhattan on October 27, 1904. The Interborough Rapid Transit Company (IRT) operated the 9.1-mile long subway line that consisted of 28 stations from City Hall to 145th Street and Broadway.

ret_g10_img_0975_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The art practiced by those engineers of the MTA who serve the modern system has -over the years- witnessed installation of 215 solid state converters, which are largely sited in deep underground vaults and inaccessible side tunnels hidden below the streets of New York City. Consolidated Edison– an electrical trust given stewardship over the metropolitan power grid- also used to maintain multitudinous converter substations for its commercial customers, but these too have been abandoned in favor of the more reliable and less labor intensive solid state rectifiers of the type now used by MTA. This room in particular, was original equipment, and was referred to as “the Manhole” where the Direct Current lines from the generator exited the soil and entered Substation 13. The atmosphere literally pulsed with latency.

from wikipedia

Electro Magnetic Fields (EMF) measurements are measurements of the magnetic or electric field taken with particular sensors or probes. These probes can be generally considered as antennas although with different characteristics. In fact probes should not perturb the electromagnetic field and must prevent coupling and reflection as much possible in order to obtain a precise measure. EMF measurements are nowadays becoming important and wide spread in different sectors to assess environmental and human exposure to non-ionizing radiation in many contexts.

ret_g10_img_0968_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

MTA has sold off many of its relict and offline substation buildings, which have been cross purposed by the modern world to “the needs of the now”. A lumber warehouse, a Chinese noodle factory, an auto repair shop, even a movie theatre- are amongst the modern vocations enjoyed by some of these solidly built structures.

from google books,

a little Congressional Office of Technology Assessment reporting on the effect on Human Physiological Parameters of exposure to high energy power lines (from the New York State Power Line Project).

ret_g10_img_0962_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Purveyors of the paranormal- who are undergoing a period of intense public interest in recent years due to the influence of several popular television series and a prevailing political fashion that interprets world events through a supernatural lensing of  fin de siècle prophecy  – speak about arrangements of electrical equipment and their concurrent electromagnetic field fluctuations as creating an environment which alters human perception. If this theory holds water, I would imagine the men and women who worked here might have some stories to share- and probably a union beef against the City.

but seriously…

here’s a map from nycsubway.org of the system in 1904 when it opened.  The crane above was one of many hand operated technologies that allowed the early system to come together. Workers would lift the 50 ton converters for maintenance and repairs using it.

ret_g10_img_0922_ohny.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

New York Open House is a yearly event wherein the architectural and civil engineering treasures of New York City that are normally off limits to the general public are exhibited by their stewards. For more info, and to sign up for notifications of next year’s event- proceed to OHNY.org.

Written by Mitch Waxman

October 19, 2009 at 3:03 pm

After the Fire

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ret_g10_img_9766_qns.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

In the posting “Weird Synchronicity“- from September 8th of 2009-  I commented on the odd coincidence that a Dutch Kills factory that I was preparing a post on was immolated at the very same time that its photos were uploading to the interwebs. On a rainy saturday a few weeks later, I made it a point of stopping by to see what remained. The inset shots are obviously pre fire, and the whole setting is at the end of the “Empty Corridor” in Long Island City.
(empty corridor is a term entirely of my own invention, by the way. I also call Gantry Plaza state park down by Queenswest “that piers thingie by the Battery Park City thing” and call the RFK Bridge- Triborough)

g10_img_7430_trav.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

ret_g10_img_9757_qns.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Devastation seemed pretty selective, but I imagine that a couple of weeks of attention for a demolition crew, -whose presence and arts are evidenced by the clean cut lines of separation observed in the structures- would involve a thorough scouring for salvage. Metals are still quite the recyclable item, although the bottom has dropped out of the cardboard recycling game.

ret_g10_img_9762_qns.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

As longtime readers know, I never cross a fenceline or knowingly trespass. These shots were taken from the sidewalk, which in this case, is the glass and steel ceiling of an underground vault connected to this fallen structure. The back of this property abuts the Dutch Kills. I must admit to having used the weed choked frontage of this former factory for… the elimination of bodily waste… in the past. This embarrassing acknowledgment is ventured solely to comment on the elaborate and long habited homeless camp that existed just 16 inches from the sidewalk and which was hidden by the thorny foliation issued by the Dutch Kills. Whoever it was that lived there had opened a hole into this vault, whose depths swallowed the light of my trusty electric flashlight.

ret_g10_img_9749_qns.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

No trace of the former residents is observed, they seem to have disappeared into the same manner as that duo from 50th avenue and 27th street who lived in a broken down car that burned away- and that enigmatic man with no legs who lived under the Pulaski Bridge’s Queens tower. Curious.

g10_img_7438_trav.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

ret_g10_img_9780_qns.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

From Fox 5:

A massive fire is burning in a two-story warehouse in Long Island City, Queens.

The flames broke out at around 6 a.m. at 50-10 27th Street and 50th Avenue.

Giant plumes of smoke from the blaze are covering the western side of the Long Island Expressway just before the Queens Midtown Tunnel.

Expect delays of at least 25 minutes on the Expressway.

NY Traffic Authority Ines Rosales recommends drivers in the area take he 59th Street Bridge or get off on the Queens Boulevard and take the Queens Borough Bridge.

There are no reports of injuries.

and from ny1.com

A three-alarm fire in Long Island City was brought under control just after 9 this morning, but not until after it caused major congestion on the Long Island Expressway.

The fire broke out just before 6 o’clock inside an empty warehouse at 50th Avenue and 27th Street, just below the LIE.

The smoke reduced visibility on the roadway and briefly forced its closure.

Fire officials say the heat from the fire was intense, forcing firefighters to fight the flames from the outside of the building.

“We originally sent people in, but it was deemed unsafe, too much fire and a whole building that had been vacant,” said FDNY Deputy Chief Bob Maynes. “So we were worried about the safety of our firefighters.”

About 150 firefighters were needed to bring the fire under control.

The flames completely destroyed the facade of the building and took off most of the roof.

Three firefighters were treated for minor injuries.

Fire marshals have begun their investigation into the cause of the fire.

Written by Mitch Waxman

October 18, 2009 at 3:11 am

Skillman avenue weirdness

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ret_g10_img_9737_qns.jpg by you.

-photo by Mitch Waxman

Resplendent with autumnal glee, your humble narrator was enjoying an aimless amble. An avenue of approach from Astoria to the debris choked lanes of the veiled Newtown Creek, I’ll often walk down Skillman Avenue and marvel at the wonders of the Sunnyside Yard as I go. Just at the intersection of 47th avenue, I saw what appeared to be an enormous Latte which was spilled into the street.

Conjecture and wild fancy filled my mind, as I thought of legendary creatures– with their cries of “Tekeli-li“. Closer examination though, revealed a different and far more logical origin for the odd phenomena.

-photo by Mitch Waxman

When the commanding officers of the FDNY are met with the challenges presented by a vehicle fire, their ultra modern methodologies and techniques call for the application of firefighting foam in lieu of water- which would merely spread the conflagration.

The foam extinguishes the various petroleum fed sources of the flame, and coats non burning components in a cooling embrace which suppresses further ignition. The foam spreads its expanding mass out and over any flammable material which might have escaped the vehicle and might be pooling nearby. When the foam dries out, the pictured crunchy residue remains.

For more on firefighting foam, check out the ubiquitous wikipedia reference here.

And it does look like a giant spilled Latte.

Written by Mitch Waxman

October 17, 2009 at 3:20 pm

Chinatown Lion Dance

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ret_g10_img_0032_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

An admission- Chinatown scares the hell out of me. Its not an anti chinese thing, its the crowds and urban density. Naturally timid, emotionally stiff, and physically cowardish- the close contact and intimate quarters of these older parts of New York City amplify my natural inclinations and compel flight from such circumstances for want of those open skies and long urban horizons found across the river in the Newtown Pentacle.

Forced by obligation, however, to conquer my timorous nature and attend a meeting of Manhattan Bridge Parade Marshals (I’ll talk about that in a later post) in Chinatown- I came across this Lion Dance on Elizabeth Street.

from chinatown-online

New York City’s Chinatown, the largest Chinatown in the United States—and the site of the largest concentration of Chinese in the western hemisphere—is located on the lower east side of Manhattan. Its two square miles are loosely bounded by Kenmore and Delancey streets on the north, East and Worth streets on the south, Allen street on the east, and Broadway on the west. With a population estimated between 70,000 and 150,000, Chinatown is the favored destination point for Chinese immigrants, though in recent years the neighborhood has also become home to Dominicans, Puerto Ricans, Burmese, Vietnamese, and Filipinos among others.
Chinatown is born
Chinese traders and sailors began trickling into the United States in the mid eighteenth century; while this population was largely transient, small numbers stayed in New York and married. Beginning in the mid nineteenth century, Chinese arrived in significant numbers, lured to the Pacific coast of the United States by the stories of “Gold Mountain” — California — during the gold rush of the 1840s and 1850s and brought by labor brokers to build the Central Pacific Railroad. Most arrived expecting to spend a few years working, thus earning enough money to return to China, build a house and marry.
As the gold mines began yielding less and the railroad neared completion, the broad availability of cheap and willing Chinese labor in such industries as cigar-rolling and textiles became a source of tension for white laborers, who thought that the Chinese were coming to take their jobs and threaten their livelihoods. Mob violence and rampant discrimination in the west drove the Chinese east into larger cities, where job opportunities were more open and they could more easily blend into the already diverse population. By 1880, the burgeoning enclave in the Five Points slums on the south east side of New York was home to between 200 and 1,100 Chinese. A few members of a group of Chinese illegally smuggled into New Jersey in the late 1870s to work in a hand laundry soon made the move to New York, sparking an explosion of Chinese hand laundrie

New York City’s Chinatown, the largest Chinatown in the United States—and the site of the largest concentration of Chinese in the western hemisphere—is located on the lower east side of Manhattan. Its two square miles are loosely bounded by Kenmore and Delancey streets on the north, East and Worth streets on the south, Allen street on the east, and Broadway on the west. With a population estimated between 70,000 and 150,000, Chinatown is the favored destination point for Chinese immigrants, though in recent years the neighborhood has also become home to Dominicans, Puerto Ricans, Burmese, Vietnamese, and Filipinos among others.

Chinese traders and sailors began trickling into the United States in the mid eighteenth century; while this population was largely transient, small numbers stayed in New York and married. Beginning in the mid nineteenth century, Chinese arrived in significant numbers, lured to the Pacific coast of the United States by the stories of “Gold Mountain” — California — during the gold rush of the 1840s and 1850s and brought by labor brokers to build the Central Pacific Railroad. Most arrived expecting to spend a few years working, thus earning enough money to return to China, build a house and marry.

As the gold mines began yielding less and the railroad neared completion, the broad availability of cheap and willing Chinese labor in such industries as cigar-rolling and textiles became a source of tension for white laborers, who thought that the Chinese were coming to take their jobs and threaten their livelihoods. Mob violence and rampant discrimination in the west drove the Chinese east into larger cities, where job opportunities were more open and they could more easily blend into the already diverse population. By 1880, the burgeoning enclave in the Five Points slums on the south east side of New York was home to between 200 and 1,100 Chinese. A few members of a group of Chinese illegally smuggled into New Jersey in the late 1870s to work in a hand laundry soon made the move to New York, sparking an explosion of Chinese hand laundries.

ret_g10_img_0042_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

One of my companions, whose origins are found in the oceanic far east, claimed that the lion dance was being performed by what would most probably be an “ethnic society”. I am fairly ignorant about these deeper facets of Chinese Society, and will accept many apocryphal stories as fact- but in this case the source is a trusted observer with a long history of rectitude.

from wikipedia

The traditional borders of Chinatown are:

Canal Street in the North (bordering Little Italy)
The Bowery in the East (bordering the Lower East Side)
Worth Street in the South
Baxter Street in the West

ret_g10_img_0043_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

A dense crowd congealed around me as I neared the scene, which set me off into one of my specious moods. Reeling from the unfamiliar melodies of the percussionists interspersed with the crowd, your humble narrator managed to gain a clear vantage. Confetti rained.

also from wikipedia

The housing stock of Chinatown is still mostly composed of cramped tenement buildings, some of which are over 100 years old. It is still common in such buildings to have bathrooms in the hallways, to be shared among multiple apartments. A federally subsidized housing project, named Confucius Plaza, was completed on the corner of Bowery and Division streets in 1976. This 44-story residential tower block gave much needed new housing stock to thousands of residents. The building also housed a new public grade school, P.S. 124 (or Yung Wing Elementary). Since new housing is normally non-existent in Chinatown, many apartments in the building were acquired by wealthy individuals through under-the-table dealings, even though the building was built as affordable housing.

ret_g10_img_0049_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

It is not an uncommon experience in New York City to stumble upon ancient rites being enacted beneath neon signs and satellite dishes. Back during the summer, I witnessed and photographed a parade that looked like a Roman mural come to life in the DUTBO neighborhood of Astoria.

another from wikipedia

Chinese lion dances can be broadly categorised into two styles, Northern (北獅) and Southern (南獅). Northern dance was used as entertainment for the imperial court. The northern lion is usually red, orange, and yellow (sometimes with green fur for the female lion), shaggy in appearance, with a golden head. The northern dance is acrobatic and is mainly performed as entertainment. Sometimes, they perform dangerous stunts.

Southern dance is more symbolic. It is usually performed as a ceremony to exorcise evil spirits and to summon luck and fortune. The southern lion exhibits a wide variety of colour and has a distinctive head with large eyes, a mirror on the forehead, and a single horn at center of the head.

The Lion dance is often confused with the Chinese Dragon Dance, which features a team of around ten or more dancers. The Lion Dance usually consists of two people.

ret_g10_img_0066_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The Lion costumes represent a significant material investment, if the prices at this website are typical for the genre. There’s a video at youtube which kind of conveys the feeling of being in this sort of crowd, albeit the far larger commotion and anarchic mood of that film was captured during the raucous Chinese New Year celebrations.

ret_g10_img_0072_city.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

From my superficial research on the Lion Dance, discernment of a competitive sort of sport has emerged, some kind of a gymnastic exhibition with elaborate scoring based on presentation and performance. For instance, were one to have found oneself in Guangzhou on February 9th, a plethora of Lion Dancers converged on the Guangzhou Lion Dance Contest and Gala for Lantern festival.

from chinatownology.com, which has a pretty cool page with video

During a lion dance performance, 2 performers co operate to “become” a lion. The Lion’s body consists of a lion head with movable ears, eye lids and mouth and a highly decorated body. The performers wear a t-shirt with the lion dance association’s logo and a special pair of pants designed to look like lion’s feet and in matching color and design with the lion’s body.

One of the performers takes the front position and assumes the front body of the lion. He controls the lion’s eye lids, ears and the mouth while his legs moves represent the front legs of a lion. The second performer arches forward to form the back of the lion, controls its tail and his legs represents the hind legs of the lion.

Lion dance performances are often accompanied by drum and gong players so that whenever there is a lion dance performances, the drum and gongs help to “inform” everyone around the area drawing crowds. The lion dance can occur with one or a group of lions and sometimes together with a Dragon Dance.

At the end of each performance, the Lion may leave a display of orange petals for audience to decipher the lucky numbers from the formation. Pastries such as prosperity cakes 发糕 are also used as props because of its auspicious symbolism.


Written by Mitch Waxman

October 16, 2009 at 11:49 am

Posted in Manhattan

Tagged with , , ,