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The Terracotta House, or… what is that?

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Terracotta House by you.

New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works, LIC -photo by Mitch Waxman

After an apocalyptic fire in 1886, the New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works needed a new headquarters. One that befit its role as the preeminent manufacturer of architectural ceramics.

Built in 1892 as an office for the company that supplied terra-cotta for Carnegie Hall and the Ansonia Hotel, among others. The company went out of business in the 1930s, and the building became vacant. It was eventually bought in 1965 by Citibank. Its ruins can be found at 42-10 – 42-16 Vernon Avenue, across the street from the sumptuous hedonism of the newly opened Ravel Hotel, and next door to the venerable and recently feted span of the Queensboro Bridge. It was landmarked in 1982.

Two and one half stories, the structure is actually the front office of an industrial complex that was once surrounded by a 12 foot high wall of brick, which enclosed an open storage yard, a 5 story factory, and the kilnworks one would expect to find at such a large endeavor. Its satisfying design was crafted by Francis H. Kimball, architect of the celebrated Montauk Club in Brooklyn, and it is in the Tudor Revival Style. 

Terracotta House from above by you.

New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works, LIC -photo by Mitch Waxman

In preparation of the forthcoming Silvercup west project, the City of New York is compelled to conduct archaeological surveys by state law, seeking any evidence of pre-contact native american artitfacts. The area is a likely choice for such artifacts, as 10th street (800 ft or so from here) is the site of a former stream that ran though an elevated section of the marshy land typical of western Queens on its course to the East River. Nothing aboriginal was found, but the presence of large scale 19th century industry would have likely obliterated anything that might have been there.

Notable forebears of the Terra-Cotta works in this area were the Wallach Mansion, and the Long Island Farms Orphans Schoolhouse – a city owned 4 building asylum which burned to ash in 1847. Ravenswood was a neighborhood of fine riverside estates by the 1860’s, and Willy Wallach wanted the site for one of his own. By the late 1880’s, after the 800 pound gorilla came to Long Island City, an ideal place for locating an industrial operation was in this neighborhood of former mansions. The New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works company purchased the Wallach estate and the neighboring Gottlieb estate.  

Terracotta House from above by you.

New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works, LIC -photo by Mitch Waxman

After the Terra-Cotta Works ended its incorporation, no doubt due to the seismic collapse of the national economy in 1932, the facilities enjoyed a diverse career under its owner- RIchard Dalton. First- it continued manufacture of terra cotta ornaments for use in New York City Parks (when Robert Moses was in charge) as the Eastern Terra Cotta Company, second- in 1950 it began to serve as a sorting center for plastic waste and the bailing of waste paper, and finally- in something curiously named “electronics operations”. Dalton used the building for his personal offices until he died in 1965, and his heirs sold the property to Citibank. Spared demolition in 1976, Terra-Cotta House was orphaned when the rest of the site was obliterated by a wrecking crew.

The building was landmarked in 1982, and is maintained by Citibank. The Silvercup West people plan on this being a charming feature for their development of the area. At the time of its glory, New York Architectural Terra-Cotta Works was the fourth largest employer in Long Island City. By the early 1970’s the place was abandoned and overgrown, forgotten by area residents. Local activists fought for and gained it landmark status in 1982.

Be sure to check out this FEIS link, they’ve got a photo on the last page of the place in its heyday.
Click here for the Silvercup West FEIS

Check out an old New York Times article on the Terracotta House here.

Written by Mitch Waxman

August 12, 2009 at 1:21 am

Keep cooly cool, boy…

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 sorry for a youtube video, just can’t resist

Inclement weather in Astoria by you.

Astoria -Dec. 19, 2008-
30 degrees farenheit with 26 mph winds and 30 mph gusts, fog, .66 inches of rain and 4.4 inches of snow
– photo by Mitch Waxman 

Newtown Pentacle headquarters, nestled in the torrid bosom of Astoria, positively swelters in the heat of a New York summer that seems to have finally arrived.

The streets outside teem with all the variegated shapes and sounds of mankind, and a tense mood can be sampled from the neighborhood gossips. Such annoyance and lamentation of the sort of extreme weather shifts that are so common to the New York area amongst my fellow citizenry puzzles me –

But those redoubtable stewards of the public good found at the City of New York’s Office of Emergency Management have posted the following remonstrations and timely advice:

from nyc.gov

The Heat Is On
The National Weather Service is predicting temperatures above 90 degrees this week. OEM reminds New Yorkers to take steps to stay cool:

  • If you do not have an air conditioner, consider going to a public pool, air-conditioned store, mall, movie theater, library during the hottest part of the day.
  • Drink fluids, particularly water, even if you do not feel thirsty. Avoid beverages containing alcohol, caffeine, or high amounts of sugar.
  • Cool showers or baths may be helpful, but avoid extreme temperature changes as they can cause nausea or dizziness.
  • Check on your neighbors, family, and friends, especially if they are seniors, young children, or people with special needs. 

Snowstorm at Night 03 by you.

Astoria -Jan. 10, 2009 –
24 degrees farenheit with 18 mph winds and 22 mph gusts, fog, rain and 1.4 inches of snow
-photo by Mitch Waxman
 

Thanks to the turbulent skies of June and July- and the accompanying cooling effects of cloud cover, I have been spared the expense and infernal noise of an air conditioner in the little room I use as an office, here at the omphalos of my little world that “Our Lady of the Pentacle” and I maintain in a historic building. I fear that I must once again reach into my threadbare pockets and scrounge enough coin for the electronics salesman. My hope was that I might make it through the summer heat, just like we did during the Astoria Blackout of 2006.

Also from the OEM:

During the summer months, New Yorkers are especially vulnerable to heat-related hazards. On warm summer days, the city can be as much as 10 degrees warmer than its surrounding areas. The city’s infrastructure — largely made up of asphalt, concrete and metal — traps the heat. This is known as the “urban heat island” effect.

Heat waves are particularly dangerous for children, seniors, people with cardiovascular disease, and people taking psychotropic and other medications. In July and August of 2006, extreme heat waves gripped New York City, claiming 46 lives and disrupting power throughout pockets of the city. In France, a blistering heat wave in August 2003 left an estimated 15,000 dead, many of whom were seniors. In July 1995, a two-week long Chicago heat wave — which saw the heat index peak at 119°F — claimed 465 lives. More than half of the victims were 75 or older. According to the Centers for Disease Control, social isolation and the inability to care for oneself put a person at greater risk for heat-related illness.

A heat wave’s duration plays an important role in how people are affected. Studies show that a significant rise in heat-related illnesses occurs when excessive heat lasts for more than two days. Spending even two hours per day in air-conditioned spaces can significantly reduce the number of heat-related illnesses.

Tracks by you.

LIC -Jan. 18, 2009 –
22 degrees farenheit with 15mph winds, fog, and 2.5 inches of snow
-photo by Mitch Waxman 

For a period of 14 days in 2006, Consolidated Edison lost control of their electrical grid in Astoria, Sunnyside, Woodside, and Long Island City. Riker’s Island had to engage its emergency generators.

On July 17th, the temperature at LaGuardia airport hit a high of 98 degrees farenheit with humidity at an uncomfortable 62 percent- it was 77 degrees at night. The weird thing was that our power was”on”, but browned out. We had one light in the entire apartment, in a darkened building. The entire block’s porch lanterns were ebbing on and off, and there were no street lights or traffic signals. Fire Engines roared back and forth across the area, as underground switches and cables ignited spontaneously. Subway service was knocked out as well. Here’s what NYTimes had to say.

Abandoned mill by you.

LIC, Newtown Creek -Jan. 24, 2009 –
18 degrees farenheit with 26 mph winds and 33 mph gusts
-photo by Mitch Waxman

In front of St. Joe’s on 31st avenue (which is, incidentally, just across the street from the modern day Karate studio that once served as set piece for “Sonny’s Bar” in the Robert Deniro/Chazz Palminteri movie “A Bronx Tale“) a car parked over an electrical access hole was set alight when its underground works immolated and consequently exploded. On 46th street, between 34th and Broadway a pyrotechnic show was observed from a series of manholes, and a queer jiggling movement was detectable in the overhead wires that carry the current into the neat rows of picture perfect homes that epitomize this part of the Newtown Pentacle.

Here’s what ConEd was forced into doing.

from Flatiron's shadow by you.

Manhattan -Mar. 2, 2009 –
18 degrees farenheit with 35 mph winds, fog, and 5.2 inches of snow
-photo by Mitch Waxman

Atypically, for the duration of the 2006 outage, my preoccupation was getting to my air conditioned Manhattan office early and then staying late. Special joy was had in a refrigerated room which held an eccentric and overly complex mechanism for producing “press proofs” and its accompanying bank of always malfunctioning servers, producers of volcanic heat which could only operate in a room whose temperatures were 60 degrees farenheit or lower. The room had a tile floor and I would just lay down on it, allowing my body heat to dissipate as if into the fine marble of a tomb, that week in July of 2006.

bonus- here’s a little comic short I drew during the astoria blackout of 2006.

Written by Mitch Waxman

August 11, 2009 at 2:53 am

Posted in newtown creek

Greenpoint Avenue Bridge

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A structure only a mother could love, the pugnacious span is also known as the J.J. Byrne Memorial Bridge.

Greenpoint Avenue Bridge by you.

From Review Avenue -photo by Mitch Waxman

Viewed from the street 0n Review Avenue, the Greenpoint avenue Bridge spans the Newtown Creek from Long Island City, Queens to Greenpoint, Brooklyn.

In Queens, Greenpoint avenue passes by Calvary Cemetery and changes its name to Roosevelt Avenue after it crosses Queens Blvd.

In Brooklyn, it remains Greenpoint Ave. all the way to the East River.

If it continued across the East River, it would intersect Manhattan at (the nonexistent) corner of 19th street and Avenue D. It’s 2.2 kilometers, or 1.37 miles from the mouth of the Newtown Creek at Hunters Point.

IMG_9863_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

A note about the photos from the water-

On September 18th of 2004, the Newtown Creek Alliance and the Working Harbor Committee joined forces and chartered a cruise up the Newtown Creek. Onboard was a heterogeneous collection of experts. Amongst their number were scholars, researchers, photographers, environmentalists, historians- even the pale enthusiast know as the Hermetic Hungarian was present. This is an annual event, and we are just weeks away from the 2009 trip. Prior arrangements ensured that the drawbridges of Newtown Creek would open for us, and the redoubtable bridge operator performed his craft admirably.

from the DOT website:

The Greenpoint Avenue Bridge is a double-leaf trunnion bascule, with 21.3m wide leaves. This bridge is a steel girder structure with a filled grid deck. The bridge provides a channel with a horizontal clearance of 45.4m and in the closed position a vertical clearance of 7.9m at MHW and 9.4m at MLW. The bridge structure carries a four-lane two-way vehicular roadway with a 1.2m striped median and sidewalks on either side. The roadway width is 8.6m and the sidewalks are 4.0m and 3.7m for the north and south sidewalk respectively. The approach roadways are narrower than the bridge roadway. The west approach and east approach roadways are 17.1m (including 1.4m center median) and 11.9m respectively.

IMG_9865_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

The Blissville Bridge was built in 1850, (and as an advertising freelancer- I can relate to this) and William H. McDonough, a civil engineer, had encountered difficulties getting paid by the folks on the Queens side after the job was done.

Neziah Bliss is the fellow for whom the surrounding community on the Queens side was named (part of this community was razed and became Calvary Cemetery) and the man credited with building it. A shipbuilder from Greenpoint, Bliss had married into the Meserole family and had aspirations of greatness. He established ferry service to Manhattan from Greenpoint, bought up the Queens side of the Newtown Creek, created Franklin Avenue as a turnpike, and had the Blissville Bridge built to extend Greenpoint Avenue into Queens.

Bliss was a self made man who left his native Connecticut at the tender age of 20. His fortune was assured when he made the acquaintance of the accomplished steam engineer, Robert Fulton. Through professional association with the older man, Bliss soon felt confident to start his own career.

Of course, Forgotten-NY has been everywhere, everythere, and everyhere.

also from the DOT website:

The first bridge on this site, a drawbridge known as the Blissville, was built in the 1850’s. It was succeeded by three other bridges before a new one was completed in March 1900 at a cost of $58,519. That bridge received extensive repairs after a fire in 1919 damaged parts of the center pier fender, the southerly abutment, and the superstructure. Until that time, the bridge had also carried tracks of the Long Island Rail Road. The current bridge was built in 1987.

IMG_9867_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

Bliss traveled the national circuit as a consultant on the dangerous and vital new technology of steam, making many industrialist friends, including future presidents. In 1827, Bliss returned to New York City and worked at the Novelty Iron works in Manhattan on East 12th street on the East River. Makers of maritime engines, he enjoyed great success, and coveted both Greenpoint and the Newtown Creek from his offices. He would do it better, creating a planned community of neat streets and open skylines, utterly unlike the smokey and dark alleys of industrial Manhattan. Bliss lobbied the U.S. Navy to move the Brooklyn Navy Yard to Newtown Creek, but his failure to convince the admirals only set him to resolute and magnified ambitions.

He established a shipyard in Greenpoint, and had enjoyed considerable success. Enough to expand his operations along the Newtown Creek, and to set up a transportation network to bring in supplies. It was during the land transactions securing the real estate for these expanded works that he met Mary A. Meserole. Marrying into the ancient Meserole clan gave him social status and political access. He soon redesigned Greenpoint and with a partner- the President of Union College– Eliaphalet Nott, founded Blissville on the utopian model of  a planned industrial community.

S. Berliner the III has an excellent LIRR site here, with maps of the LIRR tacks that once crossed here.

For a broader perspective, check out the astounding Frank J. Dmuchowski’s Greenpoint Perspective

IMG_9866_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

In 1926, J.J. Byrne worked for Joseph A. Guider, Borough President of Brooklyn.

In 1926, the Borough Presidents held a vote on the New York City Board of Estimate, giving their political machines an effective stranglehold on the allocation of funds to municipal projects. A delicately balanced political machine, this grand experiment called the City of Greater New York spread a lot of money around the boroughs in those early days, just to keep everyone happy with the new arrangement. Don’t forget, the B.P would have been the Mayor of Brooklyn, or Queens were it not for the consolidation.

Gatekeepers to a flood of city money designated to build jails and firehouses and bridges, and all sorts of public buildings – especially schools, courthouses, and hospitals- that could be sited in favored alderman’s wards- the Borough Presidents became important and powerful men. Their political organizations extended from the street corner to City Hall and all the way to Albany. Not implying, exactly, that Guider and Byrne were bad guys, or exemplars of corruption- but they ran BROOKLYN in the 1920’s. BROOKLYN.

Guider was a democrat, as was Byrne. Guider had previously represented Brooklyn’s 11th district in the New York State Assembly from 1896-1900- serving during the Greater New York consolidation efforts. By 1922, he was the Public Works Commissioner of Brooklyn during the reign of B.P. Edward Riegelman, and commanded the princely salary of $7,500 a year as compensation.

Elected in 1925 as Borough President, Joseph A. Guider is remembered for civil building projects, playing a role in the founding of what would become Brooklyn College, and keeping the Brooklyn Bridge toll free for Bicycles. The future Mayor Jimmy Walker eulogized him as “a conscientious and useful public servant’. He’s also remembered for dying in office.

IMG_9869_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

Borough President Guider died midterm in 1926 from a burst appendix at 1:30 AM on September 22, 1926 at the Skene Sanitarium of 759 President Street, so the Brooklyn Commissioner of Public Works- J.J. Byrne–  was naturally the first choice for succession by the Aldermen.

Byrne was a Brooklyn native, a son of immigrants who hailed from “Irishtown” near the modern Brooklyn Navy Yard. He finished grammar school, but went no further, and was reknowned for his trained singing voice. J.J. Byrne completed the term of Guider, and was reelected in 1929 as B.P. in his own right. Byrne is remembered as having extended both the sewer system and the number of Brooklyn Libraries, and for pushing along several long municipal boondoggle projects on the Tammany list- such as the Central Courts Building .

Borough President J.J. Byrne died in office as well- in 1930. Doctors report his death as being caused by a failure of function in the kidneys.

Guider and Byrne were both creatures of the notorious Brooklyn Democratic Party Boss John H. McCooey.

J.J. Byrne was McCooey’s Brother in Law. McCoeey was known as “Tammany’s Uncle John, in Brooklyn”.

File:John H. McCooey.jpg

John H. McCooey – photo from wikipedia.

This is another one of him throwing out the first pitch of the 1932 season.

Check out this great NYTimes modern article on Byrne, with a picture of J.J. Byrne

from the nyc.gov website:

James J. Byrne was born April 8, 1863 on Water Street in Brooklyn to Irish immigrant parents. He was raised near the Brooklyn Navy Yard in an area known as Irishtown. He completed St. James parochial school with an eighth grade diploma, and worked in the machinist trade. He joined the Building Department as a clerk in 1898.

He was appointed chief clerk of the Bureau of Public Buildings (1907-08) and later Brooklyn Commissioner of Public Works (1924-26). When Borough President Joseph A. Guider died in office in September 1926, Byrne was selected to complete the term. He was elected in 1929. Byrne died in office on March 14, 1930, after a period of declining health. His wife’s brother-in-law was John H. McCooey, Democratic Leader of Kings County.

from Review Avenue by you.

From Review Avenue -photo by Mitch Waxman

Mayor Michael Bloomberg recently announced his intentions to devote $6 million of New York’s share of the Federal Stimulus Package funds to repair and rehabilitate the Bridge.

In 1919, it would have been the place to watch and later participate in a spectacular and auspicious conflagration at Standard Oil. This structure was constructed in 1987, replacing the 1900 model which was damaged by a different fire and partially rebuilt under the administrations of Guider and Byrne. In 1922, there was debate over whether the Blissville Bridge should be replaced by a tunnel under Newtown Creek, but the prohibitive cost made a bridge seem the best choice..

IMG_0253_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

From the water, one can observe the intricate works of the lift mechanisms. Gargantuan, they suggest the handiwork of some storied cyclops trying to please his half lame master. The double-leaf trunnion bascule design, precisely euclidean in design and inspired function, is powered by gargantuan electrical motors. Activated by a manned post, the structure is actually quite active but a shadow of its former self, as ship traffic on the Newtown Creek once exceeded that of the Mississippi.

IMG_0261_newtowncreek.jpg by you.

From the water on Newtown Creek -photo by Mitch Waxman

The areas of Greenpoint and Long Island City touched by the Bridge are odd and lonely places.

In Brooklyn, there is the Newtown Creek Sewage Treatment Plant and the Miller Building. If one walks down to the end of the bridge and turns right on Greenpoint Avenue, they shall find themselves in an isolated and dark spot over a particularly dirty bend in the path of the Newtown Creek. Its deserted and a little scary down there, so a left onto Kingsland Avenue will take you past the Oil Spill remediation efforts Exxon diligently shepherds.

On the Long Island City side, Review Avenue takes you to venerable Calvary, and Greenpoint Avenue out to bucolic Sunnyside, and Van Dam to the frenetic Queens Plaza. But- there are two service roads on the Long Island City side, that lead down to the water. Both are labeled Greenpoint Avenue.

The Coast Guard says:

The Greenpoint Avenue Bridge, at mile 1.3, across the Newtown Creek between Brooklyn and Queens has a vertical clearance of 26 feet at mean high water and 31 feet at mean low water…

Transalt.com describes the Bridge thusly:

A small drawbridge across the English Kills, with horrible surfaces. The roadway is a grating, and the sidewalk is some nasty broken-up rubber. No stairs, though.

newtwn_HDR_IMG_8317_19.jpg by you.

From the JJ Byrne Memorial Bridge, aka Greenpoint Avenue Bridge -photo by Mitch Waxman

As I’m wont to remind you, dear readers, bring ID with you when you go to these places. By NY State law, you must produce ID when requested by a Policeman. I mention this, because despite the abyssmal, and possibly prosecutable laxity of security in this area- this is a pretty vital area and you SHOULD be challenged by security in this place. Also, ID may help to identify your body if you are not extremely careful of trucks and trains down here, or if some other remnant of New York’s past finds you out.

You won’t be, however.

Your biggest hassle may come from the guys working on their cars, or from hired security at the fencelines.

from Railroad Avenue by you.

Railroad Avenue, From down under the JJ Byrne Memorial Bridge, aka Greenpoint Avenue Bridge- DUGABO -photo by Mitch Waxman

Both of the Greenpoint avenues terminate on Railroad Avenue. There’s some cool 19th century stuff down the street, especially where the pavement stops, but I was uncertain of whether I was trespassing or not so I turned back in accordance with my inner timidity. The road vestigially follows the tracks for a few hundred yards and it appears on many old maps.

newtwn_HDR_IMG_8340_42.jpg by you.

From the JJ Byrne Memorial Bridge, aka Greenpoint Avenue Bridge -photo by Mitch Waxman

On the west side, LIRR tracks, at grade level, weave tenebrously toward Manhattan. That’s the LIRR Bliss tower in the lower right.

from the Greenpoint avenue bridge by you.

From the JJ Byrne Memorial Bridge, aka Greenpoint Avenue Bridge -photo by Mitch Waxman

On the East, storage for street signs.

A cloudy day in Brooklyn by you.

From the JJ Byrne Memorial Bridge, aka Greenpoint Avenue Bridge -photo by Mitch Waxman

To the south, the spires of Greenpoint.

Written by Mitch Waxman

August 10, 2009 at 12:13 am

reflections of…

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check these out at ebay.com. I’m posting this on 8/08/09, and the auction says its got four days to go. I can never afford to buy these, but one of you people reading this might be rich and can. If you do, please let me publish them… please?

I’ve got no affiliation with these folks by the way, this isn’t an ad or anything.

newtowncreek4

from item description:

For offer, a rare archival collection of original photographs! Fresh from a prominent estate in Upstate, NY. Vintage, Old, Original – NOT a Reproduction – Guaranteed !!

22 photos, numbered in the photo. Some say Complete Electrical Installation, Newtown Creek B/T by Friedman Electric Company. Looks like they are building an oil or gasoline / gas company. Shows trucks, cars, men working, buildings, advertising signs, etc. Nice views! Others have writing on back with the same location, dated Jan., 1931, with names identifying people in the photos. Include Max Bresnick, J. McMasters, H. Decker, Walter Buck, William Besterman. 17 photos are 8 x 10 inches. 5 are 6 x 8 inches. In good condition overall. Some photos do have light damage at edges, a few have creases. Please see photos below for more information. NOTE: Photos look better than shown below! If you collect 20th century Americana history, American / United States of America photography, occupation, industry, advertisement ad, etc. this is a treasure you will not see again! Add this to your image or paper / ephemera collection. Important genealogy research importance too. Combine shipping on multiple bid wins! Insurance is extra, international s/h is more.  No reserve. Good luck bidding. 

Written by Mitch Waxman

August 8, 2009 at 10:16 pm

Up and Through Calvary

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We’ve circled and stalked the place from the street, when we “Walked Widdershins to Calvary“. In the first full posting on Calvary, we walked from Laurel Hill Blvd. into the Necropolis of New York City and up Laurel Hill to its apex, overlooking the despoiled splendors of the Newtown Creek.

Today, we’re going to just wander around for a while and explore, and I finally unshackle a few observations about one of the three subjects you shouldn’t talk about in a NYC bar.

Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Addled as we are by the manipulations of the political class during the 20th century, with its “ism’s” and “movements“, Newtownicans have lost sight of the fact that the Newtown Creek was the center of the world for those who dwelt here in the 19th century. Before the American Civil War, the banks of the Newtown Creek were lined with homes built to the highest aesthetic standard, and peppered with grand hotels which catered to the sportsman and recreational fisherman. It was into this pastoral wildrness that the Calvary Cemetery was embedded in 1848, and which it sought to blend into with its fine arboreal stock and tasteful mastery of the art of landscaping.

It seems odd to us- sitting in our comfortable climate controlled and fully electrified homes and offices, to put a cemetery like this- with its ornate stonework and elaborate masonry, so close to the polluted industrial zones of the nearby Newtown Creek. Calvary spreads atavistically across a deserted and blasted landscape in our 21st century, surrounded by the trampled nest and discarded remnants of the industrial revolution.

Old Calvary, memorial day 2009 by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

My long walks around the Newtown Pentacle have often carried me through this curious place. A saturnine break from the monotony of gated industrial sites and their rusted wonders, the art of Calvary’s groundskeepers and architects is sublime to behold.

Fashionable to their particular time period and era, the wholesome multitudes of gravestones congregated here represent a century of New York’s aspirations. The early stones are humble in aspect, their faces displaying eroded and flaking cursive typography, and use a variegated stock of geologic sources for their composition- some are simple concrete. Their legends mention familial relations, and often the name of the bereaved or society which erected the monument to the fallen is included as a postscript.

from a graveyard by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

As the years progress, marble standardizes and Calvary’s hillocks gain an elaborate posture. The sculptural shaping and calligraphic quality of these stones is remarkable. Designed in a manner reminiscent of the early days of newspaper advertising, the creeds these reconstruction era markers bear boast of affiliations with immigrant societies– often mentioning their old address in Europe (County Cork, Sicily, etc.). The glittering polish of the approaching 20th century is accompanied by the appearance of a sort of resume on the stones, discussing achievements of the deceased in the newly quantized “professions” of law, or business, or medicine. 20th century mass production dominates near the edges of the property, and the familiar block printing and glittering finishes of a modern graveyard appear on the tomb markers.

Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

As had been the case with the dynamic weather of the summer of 2009, in which New York was under the daily threat of violent thunderstorms, the sky was growing dark. In the distance, thunder rumbled loudly enough that I heard it through my ever present headphones and managed to somehow overpower the driving beat of the Mountain Goats song I was playing at the time. While taking this photo, I almost stumbled into a sinkhole- undoubtedly produced by the recent wet weather, nearly twenty inches across. Looking into the hole (sorry, my flash just couldn’t do the job) I could not see its bottom. Molehills, I thought.

Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

I am, as I’ve mentioned in previous posts, an inferior specimen and great physical coward- prone to metabolic manifestations of my inner timidity. Shaken by the ramifications of what would have happened if I’d stepped directly into that chasm, I instinctively started moving toward the safety of pavement. In this moment of self loathing and personal recrimination, I wandered past the Soldiers memorial, where the 21 noble dead have rested in centuried oblivion since 1866. 

from nycgovparks.org

This park, in a triangle formed by First Calvary, Green Avenue, and Gale Street within Calvary Cemetery, has roots in the history of the Roman Catholic Church in Manhattan. In 1817, the Trustees of St. Patrick’s Cathedral (now called Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral) on Mott Street realized that their original cemetery on Mulberry Street was almost full. They drew up a charter for a burial ground in Queens, and on October 29, 1845, the Trustees bought 71 acres of land from John McMenoy and John McNolte. They named the cemetery after Mount Calvary, where Jesus Christ was crucified according to the New Testament. The first burial in Calvary Cemetery took place on July 31, 1848. Since then, the Roman Catholic cemetery, which now comprises Old Calvary Cemetery and New Calvary Cemetery, has expanded to 365 acres, and is the largest cemetery in the United States.

On April 28, 1863, the City of New York purchased the land for this park from the Trustees of St. Patrick’s Cathedral and granted Parks jurisdiction over it. The land transaction charter stated that Parks would use the land as a burial ground for soldiers who fought for the Union during the Civil War (1861-65) and died in New York hospitals. Parks is responsible for the maintenance of the Civil War monument, the statuary, and the surrounding vegetation. Twenty-one Roman Catholic Civil War Union soldiers are buried here. The last burial took place in 1909.

This park is one of many public parks that serve as burial grounds. There are burial sites in Fort Greene Park (the Prison Ship Martyrs’ Monument) and Prospect Park, in Brooklyn, and in Drake Park, Pelham Bay Park, and Van Cortlandt Park, in the Bronx. Other parks throughout the city were once potter’s fields which had no grave markers. Washington Square, Union Square, Madison Square, and James J. Walker Parks in Manhattan and Wayanda Park in Queens were all cemeteries for paupers and drifters.

The monument features bronze sculptures by Daniel Draddy, fabricated by Maurice J. Power, and was dedicated in 1866. Mayor John T. Hoffman (1866-68) and the Board of Aldermen donated it to the City of New York. The 50-foot granite obelisk, which stands on a 40 x 40 foot plot, originally had a cannon at each corner, and a bronze eagle once perched on a granite pedestal at each corner of the plot. The column is surmounted by a bronze figure representing peace. Four life-size figures of Civil War soldiers stand on the pedestals. In 1929, for $13,950, the monument was given a new fence, and its bronze and granite details replaced or restored. The granite column is decorated with bronze garlands and ornamental flags.

Cavalry Cemetery, civil war monument by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Daniel Draddy was an irish speaker from County Cork, and the son of John Draddy- a stonecarver and prolific author in the Irish language who hailed from a family on Quaker Road. In context, they came from what modernity would describe as “an oppressed religious underclass involved in an ethnic and cultural war with an aggressive and powerful neighbor willing and and able to actively engage in state sponsored genocide and ethnic cleansing“ but which they would have called the Irish Potato Famine.

Daniel maintained his marble studios on 23rd street in Manhattan, near the east river. Known as a cultured and gracious host, he was beloved by the Tammany men. Contemporaries describe him as a first class carver, mechanic, historian, and he had the ability to write in the Irish language “druidically”.

Resemblance of the monuments to the tombs of ancient Egypt is no accident. The men who built this were Free and Accepted Masons.

This is masonic iconography, with its obelisk splitting the solar wisdom into the four cardinal directions and the four deities of the spaces found between standing watch at intersecting 45 degree vectors. Such falderol was quite in vogue after the Civil War, look at the Capitol Dome or Supreme Court building in Washington D.C. for similar thematic elements.

Don’t forget- Draddy was a stonecutter, from a family of stonecutters. That made him a Free and Accepted Mason, who’s existential threat was the subject of much Catholic liturgy. The Masons, especially after their successes in the Lowlands and North America in the 17th and 18th centuries, were considered a dangerous fifth column in the power structure of Europe. In the United States, the origins of the mythology surrounding them was beginning to form. In the 19th century men like Draddy would have been considered as subscribing to an “ism”, and its odd to find such iconography in a Catholic cemetery. The Church bore a special antipathy toward the Masons in this period of time, and even today they officially shun members.

Cavalry Cemetery, civil war monument by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

As with all designs that use esoteric 19th century schoolboy philosophies as their jumping off point, one must consider the numerical and iconic minutiae of the structure. The 40×40 yard plot- the 50 foot obelisk- these numbers and their factored multiplexes represent a hidden numerical code that initiates would find significant. Often, these numbers will refer back to a holy book or a date assigned to the matyrdom of a saint. Have no doubt that this was thought out and discussed by the designers and builders.

This is another difference between the generations that lie embraced in the earth here- and ourselves- what they built was often shaped by symbolism, we build for utilitarian usage.

They had magick as a part of their lives, whether it took the form of spiritualism, adherence to superstitious custom, or the mad passion of 19th century mass religion. In the 21st century- all we’re meant to have is a sense of hard reality, and our sacred sphere is a profanity, an understudy wearing the costume of a Maestro.

Old Calvary, Memorial Day 2009 longshot by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The power of religion in the 19th century (and to a certain extent 20th, but not after the great depression) foment of immigrant New York City is impossible for us to conceive of today. The churches were part of “the system”. When you got off the boat and arrived in Manhattan, the first place you headed to was the congregation established by people from your region of origin. There, you would be inculcated into surviving the stinging whips of unregulated predatory capitalism which America (Chicago, and especially Manhattan) had so recently innovated. Many of these people had been recruited by agents of factory owners who traveled the back roads of Europe, whose pitch was the original  “streets are paved with gold” story. Trapped by circumstance and poverty, the only break allowed by the bosses from the satanic schedules of mill work common to this period- called the industrial revolution- was obeyance to god. And the only place for “the deserving poor” to be buried for free- when this world eventually killed them, was in Calvary at the discretion of their local priest. 

The priests of the time were not the isolated and dry cleaned empty cassocks seen scurrying around modern temples, shuttling into late model cars and thinking of their devotions as a career choice. These were brawlers from the working class, iron men (and women, of course) who had experienced the worst that this hostile environment could offer. When they talked, gangsters and cops listened. The churches one can find here in the Newtown Pentacle (Greenpoint especially) speak of the size and devotion of their congregations to the cause. Population numbers from the time are inaccurate at best, but there were a lot more people living in the very same rooms that we moderns now occupy. It was common to have 8-10 people living together in a what was called 1 bedroom tenement flat back then, but which is now a condo.

These were priests who could inspire men to build a Calvary Cemetery.

Cavalry Cemetery, Johnston Mausoleum by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

These priests, the sort who produced Babe Ruth and Al Capone, could inspire men like the Johnston Brothers of Manhattan to build this mausoleum. In its decrepid state, colored by automobile exhaust and its delicate stained glass twisted and torn, only hints at its former glories can be discerned. 

The Johnston Brothers were the proprietors of the J. & C. Johnston company, located ultimately at the corner of Broadway and 22nd street in Manhattan. They sold lady’s novelties, ribbons, parasols and other fripperies from their prestigious “ladies mile” location. Lady’s Mile was anchored on the busy industrial side by Union Square and Tammany Hall, and on the swank side by 23rd street with its new “department stores”. Theodore Roosevelt was born in the family home a few blocks away, and the prestigious townhouses that still line the surrounding area speak to the former exclusivity of the neighborhood.

There were three brothers- John, Robert, and Charles. Charles died in 1864, John in 1887 (possibly of a suicide). Robert, reknowned as an unlettered yet expert scholar in the fields of literature, mathematics and history, was so consumed by grief and longing for his siblings that he lost the family business in 1888, and then retired to a country house at Mount St. Vincent on the Hudson (near a convent). During a later foreclosure on his property- which he had financially mismanaged due to his grief, a fire broke out and nearly claimed Roberts life. In the end, he was found dying of pnemonia and suffering from madness by groundskeepers in a barn on the property.

Once more, a member of our Flickr group, sorabji, is the acknowledged Pentacle authority on this place. Check it out.

Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Like other industrialists, the Johnstons often reached out to their contacts in their country of origin to recruit trustworthy laborers. Robert’s name appears as principal donor to the The Fermangh Relief society, offering to aid those deserving persons in destitute circumstance with the costs of emigration and freedom from the terror of landlords. The Johnstons were also Tammany men. 

Like a stalking horse, magickal themes and ideas which were common notions at the time- like our “keeping it real” or “karma” memes are today- emerge. This kind of wholescale rending of the substance of your life was considered an appropriate response to death by the culture back then. When my grandfather died, my dad ripped his shirt in half- symbolically. When my dad died, I kissed him on the head. Think of all those old ladies in Brooklyn who have been wearing black for 40 years- they’re the last vestige of this supernatural cultural worldview that was so brutally crushed by “the -ism’s” in the 20th century. What would be considered a psychotic breakdown by our empiricist eyes- a medical event which could be managed and nursed delicately back to health- the Newtownicans of the late 19th and early 20th century saw as a metaphysical consequence of guilt and punishment. But- life in their time was not as it is now, despite superficial commonalities and vestigial building stock- these people were ruled by deep passions and motivations that modern cultures negate and control with psychoanalytic insight.

I won’t dare to question grave rituals, which I define as “deep down monkey stuff”. Like Patti Smith, I believe everything and everyplace is holy, especially the place between my ears- but that’s me- I’m all effed up- I hang around in graveyards, after all. I think elaborate sites like Calvary are very good news for 22nd century archaeologists, though.

Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

First, there was no electricity. Water came into the house in buckets carried up dark stairwells into smoky crowded rooms lit by candle. A single stove cooked whatever poor food was available, and provided meager heating. You defecated in a bucket and left the nightsoil in the alley for collection, or you just poured it out a window. Coal was expensive, its price controlled by mobsters and railroad chiefs, so you wore multiple layers of clothing all the time. Children slept in doorways and under wagons, their parents unknown. Work was hard to get, controlled by the Tammany men. Fraternal societies and lodges offered political affiliations and entry to the workforce.

The collected night soil was shipped to Newtown Creek’s offal docks. One of our first posts was on this topic, click here for “the Night soil and offal docks, and Jell-O“.

Ethnicity was what mattered to the politicians, who would lure their kin into great concentrations in certain districts to solidify their power. Other Tammany men would open factories and mills in these wards, employing the entire community as in the manner of a sharecropper and his serfs. These were the early stages of the process that gave New York’s neighborhoods their ethnic character, and which has evolved considerably since. Men didn’t drink back then, they just got drunk.

The most conspicuous modern examples of this “ethnic character” (which are stereotypes, I know, but are commonly referred to and repeated by area residents) would be Greek Astoria, Irish Woodside, Mexican Corona, Desi Jackson Heights, Russian Brighton Beach, and East Asian Flushing- but the circumstance and stories of these communities are considerably less brutal than the experiences of Irish, Italian, Pole, German, Negro, and Jewish Newtownicans in the 19th century. 

g10_img_5304_lic_oldcav.jpg by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

The first of the “ism’s” was progressivism, which believed that “the system” was broken as it was, but could be fine tuned via a more equanimously slanted division of the profits derived by labor. By enacting standards for industry to follow, and rules for worker safety and compensation, as well as the right to bargain collectively with the industrialists as part of a trade union, this fine balance could be found.

The progressives won many victories which are part of the american worker’s birthright today – adoption of the English or 8 hour day, meal breaks, coffee and bathroom breaks, medical insurance for injuries on the job, unemployment insurance, and they put child labor to an end. The people buried here are the battle hardened combatants, both bosses and workers, of a dynamic period in American politics that set the stage for a military and political collossus to emerge in the mid 20th century.

Simplistic modern jargon for this sort of political philosophy is “socialism”, which is a term which would have a great future in the 20th century. 

from a graveyard 2 by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

Still shaken by my near misstep into the sinkhole, I took to the paved road and was gratified to see St. Rafael’s loom large in an innocuously clear blue sky. However, the sounds of thunder, and an ever present and growing breeze were coming from the northwest. My attentions were drawn to  the direction of the open ocean, where the storm was approaching from. I wondered, had I looked too closely at this place and stayed too long?

I headed for the Greenpoint avenue gates with all haste, knowing that I had a maximum of 30 minutes before I would be forced to find shelter in this verdant graveyard against the approaching storm. As I was the only person visible at the time in all of Calvary, and possessed of unnaturally bad luck- I figured lightning would hit me- so I quickened my pace to a dog trot and headed for the streets of Queens.

Cemetery Statuary 02, Mt Cavalry by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

As I hurried along my way through the enormity of Calvary, my mind was racing with endless speculations about the place, and all the crazy yarns and apocryphal stories I’ve been told about it.

Just so there’s no mistake- these are STORIES I’VE BEEN TOLD AND THINGS I’VE OBSERVED, NOT FACTS.

What happened here in the early 70’s, when cults and secret magickal societies conducted hippie rituals here? What about that grave robbing story dating from the crack years I heard from a drunken ex cop? How many low level mobsters have mentioned this place as being a convenient hiding place for contraband? What about the demon haunted catacombs below, where the church buries its priests?? What are those weird metal hinged hatches with the steel staircases leading down from ground level on the BQE side? Where do they go? Where is the sewer outfall from the extensive drainage system installed on these tumulous hills? Who lives downstream from the largest graveyard in the United States? Does Calvary pay taxes? What about the “shape” my neighbor described as “moving amongst the trees in a way that just wasn’t right” while riding his bicycle home from a job along Review Avenue one January night?

Rain over Cavalry Cemetery by you.

– photo by Mitch Waxman

In the distance, the storm had reached Manhattan, by all appearances. Luckily, a short walk returned me to the streets of 21st century Queens, where I hailed a livery cab and returned to my rooms in Astoria. In accordance with the traditions of my fathers- I washed my hands and took my shoes off before I entered the house. A little sympathetic magick never hurt anyone, I always say… and besides- this place is a block from the apocalyptic landscape of the Newtown Creek. God only knows what I walked through.

Anything you may experience, in situ, by following these walking directions is at your OWN RISK, and is offered by the Newtown Pentacle for documentary and entertainment purposes only. Remember- the rule we follow at the Newtown Pentacle is to NEVER trespass. Like Vampires, Newtownicans should wait to be invited into a house before they can do their work.  Also, Please note — if something you read here is inaccurate, DO NOT BE SHY- contact me– additions and corrections are always welcome at the Newtown Pentacle.

Written by Mitch Waxman

August 8, 2009 at 12:59 pm