Montour Trail, part 1
Thursday
– photo by Mitch Waxman
There’s a huge network of rail trails in the Pittsburgh area, something which has caught my attentions a few times. Rail Trails follow the “right of way” of some bankrupt railroad which is long gone, whereupon some combination of Governmental and community organizations converted the former trackways into public spaces and parkland. A few weeks ago, I visited a section of the Great Allegheny Passage or “GAP,” which was described here, here, and here. Additionally, visits to the Three Rivers Heritage and Hot Metal trails, as well as the Eliza Furnace Trail, are described. One is slowly becoming aware of the fairly vast network of these rail trails which snake around Pittsburgh.
Last week, I paid a visit to a suburb of Pittsburgh called Coraopolis where the Montour Trail, which follows the path of the defunct Montour Railroad, begins.
I’d visited a couple of sections of the Montour very briefly back in January, in a place called McDonald, where it intersects with another rail trail called the Panhandle. There’s also a Montour trailhead in Clairton, nearby one of the Steel Mills. Wow.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I parked the Mobile Oppression Platform (the Toyota) at the head of the trail at a lot maintained for visitors nearby the Montour Trail’s zero mile marker. There was a Porta Potty there. One gathered the camera gear off of the back seat of the MOP and set off for a medium sized scuttle. This time around, I had two zoom lenses and a tripod with me. One lens on the camera, the other (a 70-300) in the bag. I’d say that about 75-80% were shot with my 24-105 mm lens.
Speaking of shooting, the first mile or so of the Montour Trail allows you egress between the property of two shooting ranges. For the entire first mile and a half, you’ll hear non stop rifle fire. This was excellent. There was so much gunfire going on that it sounded like a rock beat was playing. USA!
– photo by Mitch Waxman
These trails are very easy walking, and a lot of people were biking through, and most of them were sort of pleasant. The custom here is to say hello to strangers, or at least nod at them, while passing by. It’s somewhat ritualized, this friendly thing. As a lifelong New Yorker, this acknowledgment of other’s existence is weird, but when in Rome…
The surface of the trail is mostly crushed limestone but there’s patches of pavement here and there. The grading of the thing is in accordance with the railroad standard of gaining no more than one foot of elevation for every hundred feet that’s crossed horizontally, which is where that “easy walking” observation comes in. A small waterbody was running alongside the trail berm that once carried rails, called Montour Run. In places, the water looked fairly deep. Signage indicated that the run was stocked with trout. There were a bunch of informal trails leading off the Montour which people had graded with their feet. In urban design circles, these sort of corridors are called “desire paths.”
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Roughly two miles from where I started, the Montour Trail intersects with a natural conservation area and a set of side trails maintained by the Hollow Oak Land Trust. One wandered into the Hollow Oak zone for about a half hour, and enjoyed the landscape. I’m definitely coming back to this one in the spring when all of those sticks have leaves on them.
A lot of shallow water was cascading about, running down out of the woods and eventually joining the Montour Run.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
A crew of volunteers was at work when I was there, maintaining the trail and clearing brush. This was my turnaround point for the walk, as I ultimately had to back track to the zero mile point to get back to the car. The Montour Trail ultimately goes to Maryland, so it’s clearly not something I’m going to walk all in one go.
The other side trails which branch off of the Montour are going to also get some attention in the fullness of time, but as mentioned many times – one is still scouting.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
After hitting the turnaround point, roughly two and a half miles from the start, one began heading to the MOP. I had noted a few spots which were visually promising on my way to the turnaround point, and since it was now a good time of day – late afternoon – for light…
More tomorrow at this – your Newtown Pentacle.
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The Hood
Wednesday
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Last weekend, Our Lady of the Pentacle and myself found ourselves hanging around in the Pittsburgh suburb we landed in, which is dubbed Dormont. Given our proximity to the titular center of the City of Pittsburgh, which is about four and a half miles from here, it’s surprisingly well wooded and there’s critters all over the place. Deer, rabbits, every sort of bird you can imagine. It’s quiet and dark at night, and after midnight you can pretty much hear a pin drop. Of course, if you drop that pin, the neighborhood dog chorus is going to be forced to comment on the event.
We’ve been taking things one step at a time, and recently enjoyed a small bar crawl at several of the locals. This included what’s becoming my favorite spot – a pool hall which has a bar in it. They have Guinness on tap there, which is a bit harder to find here in Yuengling country than it was back in Irish Bar dominated Western Queens.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The terrain is something else, and Dormont is part of a region in Pittsburgh called the South Hills. One of the resources available here is “The T” street car line which leads directly into downtown Pittsburgh. It’s about a 20 minute ride from Dormont to downtown, and costs $2.75 for us. They use a distance based fare system for the service.
Our place is down the hill from the street which the T’s tracks are set into, and I can see the red flashing lights which signal its movement from the back deck. Thereby, I can confirm that the service is fairly frequent and you wouldn’t be waiting long for one to arrive at the station. Some of the stations are just set asides on the street, whereas others are high platform stand alone ones. The T has two sets of doors, one for the street level stops which has a set of steps, the other for the high platform ones.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
There’s a little patch of woods in a… I’m not sure it’s gulley, a hollow, or a run… but it’s a shallow valley which sometimes has water running through it right across the street from our place. It’s meant to be connected across by a wooden bridge, but I haven’t found that yet.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
As pictured above, the terrain here is madness when you’re on foot. The locals who grew up here display super muscular legs when they’re wearing shorts. They wear shorts (with a Steelers jersey) if the temperature is anything above 40. I’ve had people ask why I’m dressed for Antarctic clime when it’s literally freezing out and I have a winter coat on. Most of the blokes I see wear fleece sweatshirts in lieu of coats, but you do spend a lot of your time getting in and out of the car in this area so it’s a practical choice.
There are hundreds and hundreds of these municipal steps all over Pittsburgh, and it’s suburbs. As time goes by, I’m planning on exploring the somewhat hidden network of these things, and seeing what they’ll show me. I’ve been planning on taking a walk along one set that overlooks freight tracks which is tolerably nearby.
Good cardio, here in Pittsburgh.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
One walk we undertook was around that gully or hollow mentioned above which is literally across the street from the house and which we haven’t gotten around to exploring yet. The street I live on dead ends about a block from my front door and then supposedly transmogrifies into a path leading towards one of those steps. We regularly see transients and never do wells heading in that direction and not coming back. According to the neighbors, there’s a quite lovely rock formation hidden back there somewhere. Maybe the corpses of all this transients we see heading in the one direction too. I’ll find it, and them, when the weather is warmer.
The ridge at the top of the hill in the shot above is where the T street car line runs, on a street dubbed “Broadway Avenue.”
– photo by Mitch Waxman
There are some truly lovely homes here, huge structures with decks and yards and multi car garages and driveways. There is not a single building style, it’s disturbingly heterogeneous.
One can confirm the “sylvania” part of the state’s name at this time. Lots of woods here.
Tomorrow – a walk along the Montour “rail to trail” is coming. Prepare!
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Visiting the Zoo, in Pittsburgh
Tuesday
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Our Lady of the Pentacle and myself paid a recent weekend visit to the Pittsburgh Zoo and Aquarium. An amazing institution dating back ultimately to 1898, the Zoo is, but one’s empathy is nevertheless activated when encountering ‘near peer’ intelligent creatures that are living in such captive circumstances. Saying that, these critters would probably be dead or entirely extinct were they still out in the wild and living rough. The Veterinarians and Zoology people here are devoted to the health and relative happiness of these creatures.
These Gorillas are likely treated better than we would treat our fellow humans condemned to a prison, so there’s that at least. Wonder if that gorilla pictured above has ever flown a kite to the next cell block, or learned to make pruno from fruit juice and bread in a plastic bag.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I screwed up my shots on the aquarium side of the operation, which is difficult shooting to start with, by getting too fancy and exact with the camera settings. To be fair though, it’s hard under the best of circumstance to focus through half inch or inch thick plexi or glass tank walls. Especially so when they’re all smudged up with little kid fingerprints. Saying that, missed those aquarium shots entirely.
That’s an Orangutan, I’m told. Old man of the forest, as they’re known in Asia.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The Elephants were inside their enclosure, in a large concrete building which acts as their stable. Elephants, as it turns out, have a very particular and strong smelling musk. It took about twenty minutes for that smell to waft away after we transited through. I recently was exposed to a poll, one which revealed that about 9% of Americans think they can win a one on one fight with an elephant. Elephants are Batman class opponents, I would mention.
Empathy was especially felt for the three species pictured above, and for the staff of professionals who care for the needs of these intelligent and emotionally complex animals.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The Komodo Dragons, on the other hand? Eff them. Carrion eating monstrosities with tiny sinister minds, isolated island leftovers from a time when their kind ruled, Komodo’s are literal abominations. I’m quite the chauvinist when discussing the Reptiles vs. we Mammals, as you may know. The Komodo is the largest of the Monitor Lizards, has a venomous bite, and infects it’s prey during that bone crushing bite with highly virulent strains of Botulinum.
That thing was eyeballing me like it wanted a taste. Fire. Fire fixes everything.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Outside, there were all sorts of critters in enclosures. Literally – Lions, Tigers, and Bears. What I mentally refer to as a “Gigalope” is what the rest of you might call a Giraffe. Y’know they’re huge intellectually, but it’s hard to really get a sense of how big these things actually are until you see one walking around.
Nearby, a fight between two Zebras broke out, which caused every other out doors critter to go take a look at the fence. The Cheetahs were particularly interested in the Donnybrook.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
They also have a Rhino at the zoo, which is probably as close to a dinosaur as anything you’ll ever get to see – except for that effin Komodo Dragon.
Did you know that the primary cause of death amongst Komodo Dragons are other Komodo Dragons?
Back tomorrow with something different, from the Paris of Appalachia, at your Newtown Pentacle.
“follow” me on Twitter- @newtownpentacle
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Bridge to Nowhere
Monday
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The Fort Duquesne Bridge was completed in 1963, but didn’t open for traffic till 1969. The reason for the delay seems to revolve around PennDOT not having secured the real estate that would be required for its off ramps on the north side of the Allegheny River prior to the start of construction. There’s a famous story about a college student who intentionally jumped a station wagon off the open end of the bridge in 1964. Pittsburghers of the time, and some you’ll encounter today, refer to this as the “Bridge to Nowhere.”
Me? I had recently walked the nearby and larger Fort Pitt Bridge, and since Fort Duquesne enjoys a particular prominence due to association with its larger neighbor I thereby figured I’d make an afternoon out of it. This structure looks a great deal like Fort Pitt, and shares its engineering problem solving theory with it – it’s a double decked bowstring arch bridge just like Fort Pitt is.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Fort Duquesne feeds into the north western side of the city of Pittsburgh, and allows high speed road traffic (I-279 and PA Route 65) to head north along the Ohio River coast towards wealthy and long established suburbs like Sewickley, or the rapidly growing subdivisions of Cranberry Township.
Speaking from the NYC transplant perspective for a moment; I looked at both of those places before moving out here. Sewickley was too rich for my blood, and reminded me of several wealthy coastal communities in Connecticut and Jersey which I could never afford and which would annoy me daily as a proud child of the working class. Think Westport. Cranberry was cool if you’re worried about school districts, have a young family, and are investing for the long term. Think Melville or Amityville, not Huntington – and sure as hell not Dix Hills – on Long Island. Northern part of Westchester County kind of vibe.
Given that Our Lady and myself are new to the Pittsburgh area, we decided that isolating into such an suburban existence when we’re newly arrived from the concrete devastations and dense urbanity of Home Sweet Hell (NYC) would be a mistake. We chose to land ourselves, thereby, in the South Hills of Pittsburgh and specifically the Borough of Dormont. There’s public transit for when we don’t want to drive here, and there’s still an urban vibe. Cranberry was “car culture” designed, which is fine, but it’s not what we were looking for. Saying that, if you want to buy something, anything, there’s probably somebody in Cranberry Township you’d want to do business with and their shop will have ample free parking available. There’s also likely going to be a Denny’s nearby. Thriving, it is.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
Having driven over this bridge quite a few times now, it was surprising how short a walk this was. Fort Duquesne Bridge is only 430 feet long, not including the approaches, which is half the size of the South Tenth Street Bridge over the Monongahela River discussed last week.
I’ve spent my entire life in a place so unnatural and altered that the term “terra forming” applies, so there’s are many places in Pittsburgh that I just don’t understand. The crazy terrain constantly strikes me. I have a neighbor whose back yard slopes away from the road at something like 25 degrees. His front door is half a story lower than the road. His back door sits at something like 2 stories down.
Have these people never owned a level? Hear of soil grading? Creating a flat surface for the housing slab to be poured on? Filled in the Hudson River to build luxury condos? Proposed extending Manhattan to join with Governor’s Island using landfill in an estuary? Jeez.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
The path off of the Fort Duquesne Bridge comes down to earth at Point State Park, which was my turnaround point. One negotiated a brisk scuttle back to the Allegheny River coastline, this time on the south side of the river and along Pittsburgh’s ‘Golden Triangle’ downtown area. A parting shot of the bridge was required, nested in its web of on and off ramps.
Y’know, I’ve been calling it the “Pretty City of Pittsburgh” since coming here in the late 1990’s – back when I was writing and drawing comic books – to promote a series I was doing at a comics convention. In more recent years, all of my experiences in Downtown Pittsburgh have been during the Covid period. Thereby, I haven’t seen much of the hustle and bustle here, except around Court Houses and whenever the Cops or Fire Dept. are getting busy with something. It’s popping down here when there’s a Steelers game, I’ll tell’s ya.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
By this point, one was preoccupied with wonderings about when the next opportunity to demonstrate my robust renal health would present itself, and I was on the lookout for a bathroom while scuttling back towards the safely ensconced Mobile Oppression Platform back at the municipal parking lot with the cool views.
Along the way, I kept on shooting. People I passed by were jogging and bike riding, and others were smoking crack or speed. There are a lot of very skinny people found downtown with sunken eyes, skeletal nasal superstructures, and hollow cheeks in this part of the country. That opioid thing ain’t no joke. It seems that the teeth go first.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
I’m happy to report that the Greyhound Bus Station’s lavatory was cleaner than you’d imagine, and after blowing ballast I negotiated my way back to the Mobile Oppression Platform at the municipal lot with the great views and I was soon driving home. Parking cost me $5, which was an ‘all day’ price.
Tomorrow, something different, at your Newtown Pentacle.
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Someday, when the stars are right…
Friday
– photo by Mitch Waxman
A recent afternoon walk began with finding the point of view above, which includes an active railroad bridge that carries both Norfolk Southern freight and Amtrak passenger services to and fro. This was from a parking lot, which is seeming confirmation of a theory I’ve been developing about while scouting, which hypothesizes that ‘for pay’ day parking in Pittsburgh is pretty affordable and that the multi story municipal parking lots around the city offer commanding views of the municipal surroundings. Trust me on this, the easiest sort of walking tour you can conduct is one that’s got an aerial perspective. “This, that, and the other thing, Teddy Roosevelt.”
I got to chat with a Security Guard right after shooting this one. Nice enough bloke, but he hit me with the usual security guy speech. This time around, it was something about people in the neighboring apartment building complaining about people taking photos. He then asked if I was parked in the lot. It was all cool after I offered to show him my parking stub and pointed out the ‘MOP’ or Mobile Oppression Platform (my Toyota) parked neatly in a spot nearby. Paying customer, me. We actually talked about rail and that bridge afterwards for a minute, whereupon he said he was getting off work in a half hour anyway, so whatever. He literally said “so, whatever.”
– photo by Mitch Waxman
My goal for the day was at the titular extant of the Allegheny River at the Fort Duquesne Bridge, once known as the ‘Bridge to Nowhere.’ I’d recently walked over the nearby Fort Pitt Bridge (here and here) so why not pay a visit to its neighbor on a nice sunny day?
One scuttled along on the Three Rivers Heritage Trail, after securing the MOP back at that photogenic 7 story tall Municpal Parking Lot. That’s the Convention Center jutting into the shot, and there was a weekend event underway that drew a lot of families into town. Something with animatronic dinosaurs. It drew a real crowd.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
This particular day was the first sunny one in a while, and one was quite enjoying the radiate stare of the burning thermonuclear eye of god itself, unveiled. The light of judgement was pretty good, too.
For my plans to walk over the bridge to play out, I’d need to get over to the north shore of the Allegheny River, but I was on the south side of it. Luckily, it’s a ‘pick your crossing’ kind of thing in this section. An unusual abundance of bridges are found in this section of Pittsburgh.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
My intention for the day was defined by the particular kit I left the house with. Two zoom lenses, one of which stayed in my bag the whole time, are all that I carried with me. No camera support and not one bell nor a whistle. Just some weirdo with a camera, scuttling along the waterfront.
That’s the Rachel Carson Bridge pictured above, one of the so called ‘Three Sister’ bridges over the Allegheny River in downtown Pittsburgh. Rachel Carson was a Pittsburgh native and the author of the seminal book “Silent Spring” which is what kicked off the American environmental movement, in the modern age at least.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
One came to ground on the north side of the Allegheny nearby the HQ campus of the aluminum company Alcoa, and it’s doppelgänger partner Arconic. The waterfront was pretty well populated, but I managed to get one of my patented ‘zombie apocalypse depopulated City’ shots here anyway.
If you don’t like the weather in Pittsburgh, just wait 20 minutes and it’ll change. The sky grew tumescent with clouds, but it was still quite bright and fulsome out, so a humble narrator continued scuttling along.
– photo by Mitch Waxman
That’s the Fort Duquesne Bridge. Having grown up in NYC’s Brooklyn, where you pronounce things as they’re spelled, I have had to install a mental check around the word “Duquesne.” It’s supposed to be pronounced frencher style – Doo Kane. My instinct is Doo Kess Knee.
They have a curious relationship with the French language hereabouts. Certain words, like Duquesne, are spoken frencher style. There’s a community nearby called “Versailles” but it’s “Ver Sales” rather than “Ver sigh.” Wilkes Barre is pronounced as “Wilks Berry.” Pittsburgh sits right at the edge of what was once the French Empire in the Ohio Valley and battles of the French and Indian War actually were fought in this part of the country.
Back next week for a walk over the Fort Duquesne Bridge, at this, your Newtown Pentacle.
“follow” me on Twitter- @newtownpentacle
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“In the Shadows at Newtown Creek,” an 88 page softcover 8.5×11 magazine format photo book by Mitch Waxman, is now on sale at blurb.com for $30.
The Newtown Pentacle 